Painting super-flake paints?

[Subvamp]

Hey folks,

I wanted to get into shooting flake paint jobs, and even the big "GMP super flake". I've got a nice HVLP system and I'm familliar with running guns, large tips, mixing catalysts, etc. So from that standpoint, I had a few questions:

Should I buy new gravity feed guns, or suction guns?

If gravity guns, do they need an agitator?

Do flake finishes need to flash off on their own, or can they be cured in a UV booth?

Which manufacturer has the best flake products? (House of Kolor, MetalFlake, etc)

I've been poking around online and getting a few basic answers, but I figured some of the more knowledgeable folks here may have direct experience with painting flake, working in a body shop, etc.

Thanks!
(I'd put a smiley here, but I haven't figured out how to add them in yet on this new board...)

[sully]

great questions.... i'd get a separate flake gun; i'd imagine they're a pain in the ass to clean out. getting the metallic flakes outta one of my guns was a pita. there's something out there called the ultimate flake gun; it's crazy lookin and kind of expensive, but i think it's made by a company called old school flake or something like that. do a search for a flake gun and you'll find it.

i know that you have to really bury the flakes in clear, but other than that, i dunno about what guns you'd need.

sully

[sully]

oh, as far as manufacturers go, give house of kolor a shot; i bought some of their kandy kolors and they go on really nicely. try this place:

http://www.hokpaint.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=hokgate.bbx

and bookmark this as well:

http://www.spraygundepot.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=gunsdepotgate.bbx

[mm2002]

I wouldn't try flakes with an HVLP. A (high pressure) suction gun with a large tip (1.8mm should work) and an agitator cup. Shoot with that until the flake looks like you want it to (density). Then switch over to a good clear-only gun and bury it in clear, one coat at a time. The most important rule is to not touch it after the flake is shot. If you touch it or try to wipe it down, you'll lay down some of the flake and ruin the effect. The flakes need to stay as they land, on edge, etc. That's the key to getting that ultimate "sparkly" look. Lay on the clear until it just starts to look like normal "orange peel", without any sharp protrusions of the flake showing. Remember, when you color sand it, if you sand into any of the flake it'll look like shit. ALL flake is silver on the inside, so those little silver "specks" will ruin any flake job except maybe silver.

[Racerx2k]

Isn't good, consistant air pressure at the gun ALSO key to a good flake job? I thought there was a sweet spot, pressure-wise, for shoot flake paints.

[mm2002]

Actually, that "sweet spot" applies to all painting in general......not just flakes.

[Subvamp]

Thanks for the info and links! Great info.

I went down to a local custom motorcycle shop and talked with the guy there about shooting flake paint. He said that for something large, like an entire frame, he'll use a pressure pot and high pressure to get good coverage, but for something smaller, like the gas tank and fenders, he uses an HVLP system, because if he uses high pressure the flake will just bounce off.
He let me check out the different brands of flake paint, candys, etc, look at the equipment, and gave me some serious pointers. So a couple hundred dollars later, I'm all equipped to start up!

Amazing how much info you can get by giving someone a 12 pack.