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It's not funny at all. My Model 1A had a break in the headstock. It looked like he took the burrs away and used epoxy on it. On the maple you can barely see the fix. He seemed to have filled the removed wood with the epoxy and formed it down. It worked for him and me, as well.
There would be 3 methods that I would fix it. 1, if you have access to some maple with similar grain, is to file/sand the area to an even contour, then cut a piece of the maple to fit the area close in size. Glue it with wood glue. Once the glue has dried, file and sand the maple repair to blend into the headstock shape. Once the shape is there and sanded down to 600 grit, apply some clear coat, sand and polish. It will be hardly noticeable.
The 2nd method would be to use some epoxy resin, the type used for building canoe's and model air planes. One of the more popular brands in the States is "System 3". Mix the epoxy according to the directions and add some very small amounts of maple sawdust so that the mixture is almost the consistancy of molding clay. Place some masking tape on the edge of the headstock (used to retain the epoxy till it cures) Take the epoxy mixture and push it into the area to be repaired. (a popsicle stick or a plastic or soft metal putty knife helps) Once it cures in about 6-8 hours, sand the area back to profile. Then, once you have the profile down to 600 grit size, hit it with some clear coat (gloss or satin) depending on what's already on there and sand and polish. The repaired area will hardly be noticable.
.....Or method 3, would use your existing piece (that broke off) and clean any discoloration off with sandpaper. Glue the piece back in position and use some of the epoxy mixture as described above to fill out the contour. This may be your quickest way to fix the area.
There would be 2 methods that I would fix it. 1, if you have access to some maple with similar grain, is to file/sand the area to an even contour, then cut a piece of the maple to fit the area close in size. Glue it with wood glue. Once the glue has dried, file and sand the maple repair to blend into the headstock shape. Once the shape is there and sanded down to 600 grit, apply some clear coat, sand and polish. It will be hardly noticeable.
The 2nd method would be to use some epoxy resin, the type used for building canoe's and model air planes. One of the more popular brands in the States is "System 3". Mix the epoxy according to the directions and add some very small amounts of maple sawdust so that the mixture is almost the consistancy of molding clay. Place some masking tape on the edge of the headstock (used to retain the epoxy till it cures) Take the epoxy mixture and push it into the area to be repaired. (a popsicle stick or a plastic or soft metal putty knife helps) Once it cures in about 6-8 hours, sand the area back to profile. Then, once you have the profile down to 600 grit size, hit it with some clear coat (gloss or satin) depending on what's already on there and sand and polish. The repaired area will hardly be noticable.
+1
Personally, I wouldn't repair it... but if you want to... follow the above advice.
Bengal65, guys, thanks so much for writing that up, bro's.
I personally had the #3 as my first idea, but your #1 is also interesting. I have a piece of maple laying around that looks pretty close, grain-wise.
What i dread the most, is re-clearcoating that area. The neck is satin finish right now. I guess clear coating only the damaged area, is the way to do it? Brush it in, so to speak. You wouldn't clear coat the complete head stock, would you?
jgcable, why wouldn't you repair it? I had the thought myself... thinking that shit happens and i'll live with it. Guitar is okay apart from that. Is that your mindset about this?
Bengal65, guys, thanks so much for writing that up, bro's.
I personally had the #3 as my first idea, but your #1 is also interesting. I have a piece of maple laying around that looks pretty close, grain-wise.
What i dread the most, is re-clearcoating that area. The neck is satin finish right now. I guess clear coating only the damaged area, is the way to do it? Brush it in, so to speak. You wouldn't clear coat the complete head stock, would you?
jgcable, why wouldn't you repair it? I had the thought myself... thinking that shit happens and i'll live with it. Guitar is okay apart from that. Is that your mindset about this?
I couldn't live with myself if I didn't repair it. I would have suicidal tendancys. You can mask of the area to spray (go back away's towards the nut area, or you could use a brushable satin clear lacquer. The area will get blended into the rest of the neck. Once sanded to about 1800-2000 grit your sanding should match the rest of the neck. You won't need to do any buffing. This is pretty much an easy fix. There are chances that the existing finish may be a Poly, but that is not a problem since the acrylic or Nitro lacquers can be applied over the top.
Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
I would just clean the headstock and the broken piece and glue it back on. Then fill whatever little crevaces/cracks with some glue and maple sawdust and finally clear the area.
Thank you all for the help. I think i'll glue the little piece back on and see how good i can blend it in. The neck is actually oiled (sorry, i said satin coat earlier).
The damage was due to improper packaging. UPS was the carrier and we all know how they sometimes "handle" goods.
Man, i wish my house was ready so i could start modding guitars again.
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