R2 nut question...

[jgcable]

I just got in my R2 nut for my Model 2 mutt.
Here are the issues.
The original nut says 2-R on the bottom of it. I measured it against the new nut which is marked R42. The new nut is a tiny bit smaller and the string spacing is a tiny bit narrower. So far so good.
Here is the problem.
The old nut is held onto the neck with 2 allen screws that are drilled completely thru the neck. from the back side. The nut is threaded for these screws.
The new nut has the same exact holes in the same exact place but they are not threaded.
I guess here are my options:
1. Buy a tap and dye set and try to tap the new nut holes.
2. Dowel up the holed drilled in the neck and use 2 small wood screws to screw the new nut on from the top.

Which one should I do??

[Racerx2k]

I believe option number 2 is the way this new nut is supposed to be mounted, as there are no threads in the holes.
You could always go with option 3: Get a totally, but correct, new nut.

[SGplayer]

What you got was a R2 top mount w/screws, you need a R2 bottom mount w/threaded bolts??

[MetalMedal II]

If the ones from Ebay are real Floyd Rose locknuts and not just cheap knockoffs, I'd go with an R2 threaded nut from there. Don't waste $$ on a tap and dye, unless you're already looking to get one. Dowling would work, but it's a PITA, although I might consider doing it just cos I l don't like the holes drilled all the way thru. I think that's a setup for a headstock break.

[SGplayer]

I don't like either the hole-thru type mounts on thin necks, OK for thicker fender type necks though...

[DonP]

John,

I'm using a black rear mount Schaller R2 nut that says "Made in Germany". It fits perfect on my neck, except that the neck needs an R3 nut. I've gone through 4 nuts - 2 "Made in Germany" R3's and two R43 cheapies, but the issue is the nut height - my R2 nut is low, but all of the newer nuts I find are high. It's a real PITA, and I've given up and decided to just use the R2 nut.

[mm2002]

It frustrates me too that they can't just have a standard nut height. I make the taller ones work by filing the bottoms. The advantage is you can really tweak your string height at the first fret without dicking around with shims. It's still kind of a pain in the ass though.

John,
If I may ask, why in the hell are you going from an R3 to an R2 on a 1 11/16" neck?
It's not like you have tiny hands or anything. Just curious.

[MetalMedal II]

John,
If I may ask, why in the hell are you going from an R3 to an R2 on a 1 11/16" neck?
It's not like you have tiny hands or anything. Just curious.

I think there was a previous thread where he mentioned the outside strings were too close to the fretboard edge.

[mm2002]

Ahhhhhhh....yes, I forgot about that. So the neck must be a 1 5/8" ??? I saw where it said model 2 "mutt".

[jgcable]

Ahhhhhhh....yes, I forgot about that. So the neck must be a 1 5/8" ??? I saw where it said model 2 "mutt".

yes, its a 1-5/8" neck. I got out the tap and I tapped the two holes in the new nut. It took me around 5 minutes. I threw it back on, I strung her back up and its perfect now.

[mm2002]

Awesome! Ya know, I was going to say you could just tap the existing holes (I've done it a couple of times), but ya never know. I still say they need some kind of "standard" for nut sizes. (other than width)

[Racerx2k]

Glad to see that it worked out for ya. My concern was maybe botching the tap job, and ruining a perfectly good nut, and not being able to get oyur money back. A happy ending, afterall.