Floyd Saddle Intonation Screws - Stripped Thread Problem

[Annah]

I have a 1993 RR1 with the Jackson Floyd-licensed trem. The thing works well, for the most part, but there is one major flaw I have discovered...

The hex screws that bind the saddles to the bridge (also used for intonation) only screw about half-way into the threaded holes in the bridge itself, so in effect, they never screw all the way into the holes. The screws themselves are only getting about 3/32" of bite in the holes. The resulting problem is that the top half of my low-E and A string holes are totally stripped smooth! This sucks, MASSIVELY because it is impossible to intonate the guitar.

There are two holes per saddle, but it is the hole closest to the tail-end of the guitar that needs to be used for proper intonation.

My solution, and highly-recommended suggestion to you if you have one of these units, is to use longer hex screws that will extend all the way through the holes. This gives the screws maximum grip and reduces the chances of stripping the holes.

A quick question I have, which I'll probably figure out on my own pretty soon, is: Does anyone know the size of those screws? They appear to be metric and are obviously fine-threaded. I've just gotta take one in and pick up some extras somewhere. In fact, Home Depot has a great selection of hex screws, so I'm sure they'll have what I need. I just won't have a screw with me when I go over there this afternoon. lol.

Annah

[zeegler]

That's kinda strange Annah. I've never had a trem with such short saddle lock screws. All of mine go right through the baseplate. Maybe they are not original. Is this one of the Schaller-made bridges, or the later, crappier knock-offs?

[rjohnstone]

Annah... I believe those shipped with the Schaller JT-590.
If so, these screws will fit perfectly. And they are long enough.
$4 for a complete set... http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/guitar_frscrews.htm
Stewmac has some generic ones for $.27 each... don't know the quality.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Floyd_Rose_tremolos_and_parts/5/Floyd_Rose_Locking_Tremolo_and_Parts.html

[jackson1]

The resulting problem is that the top half of my low-E and A string holes are totally stripped smooth!

I would definitely replace the base plate to a Floyd Rose II if possible. Those partly stripped threads will eventually strip completely and to have that happen on stage....

I have a Schaller JT-590 equipped 1993 Rhoads Pro where the threads started to go and i contacted jcf member JACKSONWOLF and he got me a replacement base plate called "Floyd Rose II" with steel thread inserts.

Here's a shot of the Schaller JT-590 (same as yours??) and a shot of the replacement base plate:



Also, this link will tell you a bit more on the swap:
http://audiozone.dk/index-filer/TremoloInfoProject.htm

[memphiskat]

If anyone knows where I can get one of these base plates I'd be interested too. I have the exact same problem- the low E hole closest to the bridge is stripped.
Karl

[blindmuddy]

This is why I recently switched that same trem for a real Floyd cause every 590 I've had has stripped out.

[jackson1]

Steve (JACKSONWOLF) is still an active member here i think. Don't know if i'm doing him a favour by posting his name though Give him a PM. Nicest fellow ever! He's in England!

[jackson1]

Karl, didn't you get my PM long time ago regarding this?!?

[memphiskat]

Karl, didn't you get my PM long time ago regarding this?!?

Yes, I did get it. Thanks very much for the response. Your site was very helpfull and I would recomend it to anyone who needs info on these trems. I never did connect with Jacksonwolf though, but another forum member just hooked me up with a replacement. I should have it soon. I'll just have to be REALLLLYYYY careful with this one. This forum is great! I hope I can help somebody out the same way sometime.
Karl

[zeegler]

Hey, if anyone has done this swap, and has the old baseplate left over, I have a pretty good idea how to fix this, and I'd like to give it a try. If someone is willing to send me a stripped baseplate, PM me. I'll even pay your shipping.

[Annah]

AHA! Yes, mine's the JT-590 indeed. I have been thinking about getting a new Floyd to replace it. But will probably just invest that money into a new RR1 and keep my 93 as a backup. I did procure a few screws from our bassist, Brendan, but I'll have to give them back to him when I pick up some new ones. Thanks for the links and tips!!!

[Zerberus]

If anyone knows where I can get one of these base plates I'd be interested too. I have the exact same problem- the low E hole closest to the bridge is stripped.
Karl

I can get these in any amounts necessary.... PM me if interested

BTW, not all of the new ones say "Floyd Rose II", most nowadays simply say "Schaller" ... same baseplate, though, brass inserts and all

This is why I recently switched that same trem for a real Floyd cause every 590 I've had has stripped out.

Consider yourself lucky if the guitar still intonates correctly, as the schaller is mounted a full 1/16" closer to the nut and the OFR has a correspondingly shorter baseplate... I definitely wouldn´t recommend tuning down...

[DonP]

Good info in this thread.

1. I need to check my 590's (I have several) to make sure they have full sized screws biting into the threads. Get replacement plates if some are messed up.
2. Need to keep in mind the differences Zerberus mentioned - I have that ESP project I'm still working on. I started with a Shaller but switched to an OFR.

Annah, if you are thinking of getting a new RR1, one thing I notice (at least on the one I picked up) is how much lighter they are than my 1992 and 1995 RR1's. This was an axe in GC Hollywood they just got in. White with RR style pinstripes. Of course they are out of their minds with the price they are asking....

[zeegler]

I can get these in any amounts necessary.... PM me if interested

BTW, not all of the new ones say "Floyd Rose II", most nowadays simply say "Schaller" ... same baseplate, though, brass inserts and all



Consider yourself lucky if the guitar still intonates correctly, as the schaller is mounted a full 1/16" closer to the nut and the OFR has a correspondingly shorter baseplate... I definitely wouldn´t recommend tuning down...

Hey Zerb, thanks for the offer. Someone is sending me one already, but depending on how my experiment goes, I might need another. I'll definitely be in touch if I do.

[Annah]

Thanks for the info Don. I wonder why they're lighter. Poplar instead of Alder maybe?