Trems: Recessed vs Standard

[catzodellamarina]

I think I've stumbled across an answer to an issue that has plagued me for quite some time. On my Charvels with standard, above the body trems (USA San Dimas, 650XL) I break my D string on a regular basis. I think my hand position, pressure, and height of the trem all factor into the cause.
On my recessed trems (Fusion, Jem777) I can play them for days before a string breaks. Same with my Model 7 which has no trem.

Aside from the loss of a small amount of wood on a routed recessed trem, What are the pros/cons of these 2 style of trems? IMO it seems my standard trem models offer more sustain but also these are high-end Charvels.

I'm close to ordering a new Custom Shop Charvel and I don't know whether to go recessed trem or not.

[sl2lover]

I haven't broken a string since I was a kid! I now have an OFR, and a Schaller Floyd, and Kahler. Never broken a string on any of them!!

[rjohnstone]

First... what are you doing to break so damn many strings?
I haven't broken a string while playing in years. And I can be pretty abusive to my trems sometimes.

The only difference I notice between top mount vs. recessed is the ability to pull up more on a recessed trem.
That's it. I have guitars with both type and honestly don't see any other differences from a tone/sustain perspective.
I think recess mounted are more comfortable as well, but that's more of a personal preference thing.

[catzodellamarina]

I must be a freak of nature. As a kid I never broke strings, now I wish I knew why I break em'. At best I can get 3 nights of solid playing on a fresh set before SNAP - there goes the D. Maybe I have toxic acid sweat like Alien and play like Predator. Whatever it is, strings on the recessed trems last longer for me.

[Model1VH2]

Your issue with breaking strings has nothing to do with "Flush mount vs. Recessed mount". The fact that you say it happens most frequently to the D-string would leave me to believe there is probably a burr somewhere on the saddle.

I believe flush mounted trems offer more sustain because they are mounted in direct contact with the body which will provide better resonance.
I also believe flush mounted trems provide better tuning stability and won't throw your guitar all outta whack should you break a string.

My vote goes for flush mount.

[toejam]

Where are you breaking the string at? Might be a burr in the saddle that needs to be sanded out. I can't think of any other reason why you'd break a string on the non-recessed trem and not on a recessed one.

[toejam]

I also believe flush mounted trems provide better tuning stability and won't throw your guitar all outta whack should you break a string.

My vote goes for flush mount.

Even though the trem is non-recessed, it's still not a flush mount, at least on Charvels. They're still floating above the body, just you can't pull up as much as with the recessed ones. If you can lower the action enough to have the trem flush on the body, then you'd probably need to shim the neck a little to compensate anyway.

[Model1VH2]

Where are you breaking the string at? Might be a burr in the saddle that needs to be sanded out. I can't think of any other reason why you'd break a string on the non-recessed trem and not on a recessed one.

Is there an echo in here?

[Model1VH2]

Even though the trem is non-recessed, it's still not a flush mount, at least on Charvels. They're still floating above the body, just you can't pull up as much as with the recessed ones. If you can lower the action enough to have the trem flush on the body, then you'd probably need to shim the neck a little to compensate anyway.

I'm not sure I understand your point here.
Yeah, you can adjust a flush mounted trem to "float" (somewhat).
It's all in how they're set up.

And what does a shim have to do with anything?
I'm sorry ... I must have missed something. (????)

[toejam]

Well, if I put the trem on my Star all the way down to the body, the action will be too low and fret out on the higher frets while bending. Won't I need to shim the neck or maybe shave the neck pocket or something to remedy the situation? Or maybe just the saddles will need to be shimmed?

[Model1VH2]

Well, if I put the trem on my Star all the way down to the body, the action will be too low and fret out on the higher frets while bending. Won't I need to shim the neck or maybe shave the neck pocket or something to remedy the situation? Or maybe just the saddles will need to be shimmed?

I understand what you're saying, I'm just a little confused what it has to do with the topic of discussion or my earlier comments(?). I dunno.

Sorry ... carry on.

[jtr]

First you can't make your 650xl( its neck thru &MIJ) a flush mount the neck is set to much of a angle. 2nd the breaking of the string has nothing to do with it being flush or off the body. Next where do the string break at the bridge/nut ? How often do you break strings onyour other guitars? What gauges are you using and are you tune to standard pitch?

[SGplayer]

I've broken a couple of b strings in a year, are you tightening the floyd bridge string clamps too much, that will sometimes weaken the strings at that point, I used to break my high E all the time, I was tightening the string bridge clamps too much???

[catzodellamarina]

No burrs guys. I wish there were. I've had my tech guy check them over n over. In fact he says it's rare he ever finds a burr on any guitars he works on.
When I was younger I had an original Kahler, flush to the body. Back when I never broke strings. I've never seen a flush Floyd. All I've seen are either above or below the body. I'm sure it can be done.

I'm gonna have to lean towards recessed trem on my next guitar for the Society of Save the Strings.

[catzodellamarina]

I'm not modifying any of my guitars trems. I think the post got a little fragmented.

They bust at the saddle.