Before I try this...

[tseegert]

Heres the skinny, I dont trust my soldering skills, and am too damn cheap to pay someone to do this for me, unless its a last resort.

I got my new pups for my SLSMG today, and would like to install them. But I hear that you can damage the pots and switch by exposing them to too much heat, and that its relatively easy to damage them. (not sure how true that is, but I would rather not damage them)

Can I clip the old wires and leave a lead from all of the pots/switch, and just jumper the wires together, and solder the wire connection?

I know this sounds cheap, but I see no need to pay $30 bucks if this will work just fine. If not.. well, then I guess I havent a choice.

Thanks in advance

[gemini8026]

Boy, it would take a LOT of heat to ruin a pot. Ive done work with both a pen solderer and a higher end high heat one, and never damaged anything. Dont start cutting wires, that gets sloppy and you wanna keep a strong signal with fewer connections and a good clean solder.

It will work, but id recommend soldering the pot. you WONT damage it, and it will be fairly easy!

[RobRR]

What really ruins a pot is getting the solder inside the indented hole on the top edge of the pot. As long as you dont get any solder in there, the pot will be fine.

[slayer32390]

i was so nervous the first time i swapped pups in one of my guitars but then i realized that new pots are super cheap, so if i screw up so its no biggie. and its very easy to solder things. and fun too

[tseegert]

You've all convinced me. I'll solder the bitch in there.

The reason I'm so apprehensive is, I replaced the pups in my strat, and when you get something wrong, its a total bitch to resolder anything, due to having to rip the whole damn thing apart again. At least the SLSMG has some convenient access to correct any mistakes without having to disassemble anything.

Thanks for the input guys.

[Chad]

The reason I'm so apprehensive is, I replaced the pups in my strat, and when you get something wrong, its a total bitch to resolder anything, due to having to rip the whole damn thing apart again.

On a Strat (or other frontloaded guitar), before putting things back together I always check my connections by playing with the switch and tapping on the pickups with a metal object (screwdriver) making sure the correct pickups are working as they should. I also double or triple check my connections. If I'm tired, I've even walked away for awhile, then later with a fresh mind looked over the soldering to make sure it looks good. By following those methods, I always get it right the first time and only have to remove the pickguard once.

[jackson1]

RobRR did a great soldering article in the Tech QA:

http://www.jcfonline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=521165&postcount=16

[Newc]

On a Strat (or other frontloaded guitar), before putting things back together I always check my connections by playing with the switch and tapping on the pickups with a metal object (screwdriver) making sure the correct pickups are working as they should. I also double or triple check my connections. If I'm tired, I've even walked away for awhile, then later with a fresh mind looked over the soldering to make sure it looks good. By following those methods, I always get it right the first time and only have to remove the pickguard once.

And here I always just held the pickguard over the strings and flipped the switch and turned the knobs

And yes, It's possible to leave the strings on (loose) and remove the pickguard, but a bit more frustrating when the poles get hung on the strings. Saves a bit of time unstringing and restringing to check stuff.

Alternatively if you have a second guitar (even an acoustic) you can hold the pickguard over that and strum its strings. The pickups don't care either way.

[tseegert]

Well, I just got done "soldering" this bitch. The only question I have remaining, is was it ok to "tie" the bare and green together before soldering it to the pot? I really didnt have a choice as the quarters are much tighter than I realized.

Other than that, things went pretty smoothly. Thanks for all the advice thus far

[Chad]

And yes, It's possible to leave the strings on (loose) and remove the pickguard, but a bit more frustrating when the poles get hung on the strings. Saves a bit of time unstringing and restringing to check stuff.

Another "trick": I've been known to remove the neck when working on a front-loaded Strat's electronics. To do this, I first detune a few steps, then capo the first fret, which keeps the string wraps from going squirrely on the tuning keys. After that, unbolt the neck and set it off to the side while you have free access to work in the control cavity. When finished working on the electronics, reattach the neck, remove the capo, then tune up while making sure the strings balls are correctly seated in the trem block.

[Bengal65]

Well, I just got done "soldering" this bitch. The only question I have remaining, is was it ok to "tie" the bare and green together before soldering it to the pot? I really didnt have a choice as the quarters are much tighter than I realized.

Other than that, things went pretty smoothly. Thanks for all the advice thus far

Yes, no problem. I usually solder those wires before hand. You can basically "tin" the pot before hand as well as the wire, then not much heat is needed to attach the wires to the pot!

[tseegert]

And again, the best crew on the 'net comes thru. Thanks for all the tips, I finished her last night, and it went off without a hitch

[JRE]

thanks for this as well

tomorrow i try my first pick up swap