OFR is a superior trem????

[mm2002]

I'll admit, I haven't owned a bunch of axes with OFRs, but one thing I remembered years ago was that I always had problems with string breakage, and it seemed everyone else did too. Since everyone seems to love them now, I figured this was some kind of design flaw that they got worked out. Well, now I have a 2005 model, and it's doing the same thing. I have been playing it for about 4 months, and I've broken 3 D strings, and 2 A strings. They are snapping off right where they exit the lock block on the saddle. After a close inspection, I can see that the angle of the ramp exiting the lock block hole is very sharp, and puts a tight bend on the string when it's tuned to pitch. I'm thinking maybe I can get in there and file the ramp a little to reduce the "sharpness" of the angle.....but then I'm thinking....why the hell should I have to do that to a trem that's supposed to be the best money can buy? I have axes with JT6s, Schallers, JT580s, JT580LPs, Edge Lo Pros, and even one el-cheapo JT500, and NONE of these have any problem with string breakage. Matter of fact I can wear a set of strings completely out until they sound like dead rubber bands on all of the other guitars, and NEVER break one. I might also add that the OFR doesn't stay in tune a bit better than any of the above mentioned trems.

So....I guess my thoughts are, why all the hype about the OFR? Did I just happen to get all bad ones? Am I the only person that has this problem with them? Right now I'm ready to pull the piece of shit off there and put a Schaller on. Unless someone can convince me that I'm doing something wrong, this will probably be my last OFR.

[Newc]

Sounds like you either got a bad one or there's something screwey with your block in the saddle.
Does yours have the brass tabs at the bottomof the saddles that are supposed to keep the blocks from falling out?

You might also want to check that the block is pressing evenly on the string and not leaning forward and pinching the string on the sharp edge of the block.

I honestly haven't broken a string on a OFR since 1988. I've broken them on a Les Paul Standard like they were falling from the sky

[mm2002]

Sounds like you either got a bad one or there's something screwey with your block in the saddle.
Does yours have the brass tabs at the bottomof the saddles that are supposed to keep the blocks from falling out?

You might also want to check that the block is pressing evenly on the string and not leaning forward and pinching the string on the sharp edge of the block.

I honestly haven't broken a string on a OFR since 1988. I've broken them on a Les Paul Standard like they were falling from the sky

Yes, I've checked all of the above. Hey, if you can break strings on an LP...then I don't feel so bad!

[Newc]

I'm also using EB SUper Slinkys - the Pink Pack. I used to get those D'Adarrios For Floyds because they had the little brass tab at the end instead of a ball that would fit in a Floyd saddle.
I popped those things like bubblewrap.

Tried GHS, Dean Markley, SIT (they don't), and everything else. Ernie Balls are the best string ever made.

[St.James]

Over tightening the blocks can cause string breakage. It can crack the blocks too.

It doesn't take much pressure to hold and lock the strings properly. I honestly can't remember the last time I broke a string on any of my guitars.

[quiksilver]

I have used OFRs for decades, and I've had zero problems with string breakage. Tuning stability has been excellent with all of my locking trems (both OFRs and licensed copies).

[joshulator]

I've had my SL1 for just over a year now. This is my first guitar with an OFR. This is also the first guitar where I have never broken a string. My last set of strings were on for like 6 months, and I practice every day. In fact, I'm starting to lose the urge to buy a second guitar as a backup.

I also use the Ernie Ball pink pack. I wonder why our results are so different.

Out of curiosity, do you clip the ball end and put that in the tremolo, or do you string the guitar "backwards". I happen to string it "backwards", but I don't know if that really makes a difference or not.

[MichaelLitvak]

i heard that if you string itbackwards, the ball pulls on more on the neck
i always cut mine off anyway


btw: the strings have to go under the block stright.. not sideways and they have to be in the middle other wise it breaks.. thats what happened to me

[mm2002]

Thanks guys, very interesting. I use boomers and have for years, never a problem there. I string with the ball ends at the tuner, and cut the string to length at the bridge (again, just as I have for years). Maybe I'm not being careful enough to perfectly align the strings in the saddle (like MichaelLitvac said). I'm going to re-string it, and pay careful attention to the alignment. Maybe the other trems are a little more forgiving in that area. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll try replacing the saddles. I'd really like to love these things!

[Big D]

I've used Floyds on pretty much all my guitars for a looooooong time and they are the bomb. But, there are tricks you learn over time related to strings, tuning, etc.

Even if I'm not putting fresh strings on, here is what I do before every show: loosen the strings (one at a time), take it out of the "lock block" and cut 1/2 an inch off. Re-insert the now fresh string end and re-tune. Follow this practice and you'll probably never break a string at a gig. Plus you can get a lot more life out of your strings.

I find that if I play one of my Floyd equipped guitars hard for more than 3-4 hours, I pretty much am guranteed to break either a D or A string. I use Ernie Ball 10's.

[jackson1]

I have a trick you might wanna try, Mark. I don't know why I'm doing it when stringing my OFR guitars, I just do. It just seems like a good thing to do. Don't know if it actually helps anything:

After putting the string in the saddle (straight of course) I tighten the locking bolt just slightly. Then I bend the string over the saddle (fully) and then tighten the locking bolt fully. Then I tune up. Never had any major problems like you're describing.

[mm2002]

I find that if I play one of my Floyd equipped guitars hard for more than 3-4 hours, I pretty much am guranteed to break either a D or A string. I use Ernie Ball 10's.

So...how is that supposed to convince me that OFRs are superior???? Actually, it kinda goes along with my experience and further supports my feelings that they are inferior (at least in one way), or possibly some of them suffer from poor machining. They do the same thing to me (break strings).....that's what this thread was about. So, I guess I must ask, how can you tell me they are "the bomb" in one sentence, and then tell me that they break strings every 3-4 hours of use? That's almost exactly why I started this thread. (unless I'm misunderstanding something, or taking your statement out of context)

I have a trick you might wanna try, Mark. I don't know why I'm doing it when stringing my OFR guitars, I just do. It just seems like a good thing to do. Don't know if it actually helps anything:

After putting the string in the saddle (straight of course) I tighten the locking bolt just slightly. Then I bend the string over the saddle (fully) and then tighten the locking bolt fully. Then I tune up. Never had any major problems like you're describing.

Thanks Henrik. So.....what everyone is saying is that OFRs are superior....but only after you spend the extra time and effort to make sure you string them up exactly so so, and compensate for all of their quirks?
Hell, I can string up one of my Schaller axes in 5 minutes, stretch the strings, tune it up, be sloppy, not worry about "precise" string alignment with the lock blocks, lock down the nut, and whammy the hell out of the thing for 6 months and never break a string. Sounds like an OFR requires 30 minutes of finesse just to insure it works properly......hmmmmm....

It's all good, but think about my point of view.

[rjohnstone]

I don't know about the others, but I've never had a string break on any of my OFR equipped guitars.
Mark, I think you have the poor misfortune of having one that slipped
through the QA process.
I also have a JT-580LP trem on one of my guitars that I like a lot too and it's never failed me.

And for the record, it takes me about 10-15 minutes to restring and tune an OFR equipped guitar. I don't do anything different for my 580 trems either... I treat them the same.

[Sunbane]

I break fewer strings with my OFR than any of my other trems. I don't do anything differently when stringing it up compared to the others.

[jackson1]

Looking back, my OFR chrome trem DOES break strings more often compared to my other trems (vintage, JT-590), but not to a point where I'm bothered. Heck, maybe I play the OFR more... it's the one I gig and use at rehearsals and there's more power chording going on in these situations - this could perhaps explain the A+D breakage too.
My vintage + JT-590 equipped guitars are used more at home, noodling Yngwie stuff, which is a whole different playing technique = gentle, compared to power chords.

Whatever! I'll swap your OFR's anytime for some of my Takeuchis!