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I got an import model(RR-3) but, anyway...
Mine goes up from G to really high B(can`t figure it exact out cause
I got a tuner on my amp(it shows that it`s a B totally high up...)
edit: My g/f says it`s C...
5th fret on the G string...
enough to break strings...my soloist is one of the late 80's where there is an angled recess for pull back but the trem is still mounted above the body...thats the way i like mine as i got used to floyds above the body...fully recessed trems dont feel right to me anymore...d.m.
Sorry about posting in the wrong section. I thought it should, maybe, go in the tech section. But, I was wondering what people with USA guitars had expierenced. Guess it doesn't matter.
Anyway, I'm a little disappointed I only get 2 steps with less than .3mm relief and 1.5 mm action at the 12th on the bass side E.
Oh well, I see why. The baseplate hits the back edge of the route/hole where the trem block passes through to the back of the guitar. The trem block doesn't hit nor does the trem arm holder.
Time to visit a luthier to angle the edge of it or something, if I want anymore. That's the bitch about through neck guitars. I'd simply change the neck angle if it was a bolt on.
Otherwise, It's truly an awesome guitar and worth the time and money to get it exactly how I like. I want at least 3 steps..so G to C on the G string.
Well, I geuss I'll pull the trem out next time I change strings to really see what is going on. The finish looks a little thick at the edge of the trem block route/hole.
Honestly, I really don't pull up higher than 2 steps most of the time. I just like to have the extra "headroom" and a possible string breaker once in a while.
Just posting this in case it helps someone else out....
I took the trem out and discovered the screws that hold the saddles to the baseplate were bottoming out. There was also a build up of clear on the back edge of route/hole for the trem block.
So I sanded the excess clear down and took a 9/64 drill bit and made a divet under each saddle retaining screw. I used a razor blade and 220 grit to knock down most of the clear I then followed up with grits 1500 - 6000 micromesh. Even though all the work was done under the bridge and not visible, I didn't want it to look like a hack job. I also painted each divet black and put a small drop of clear over the black. I made each divet just deep enough to see wood in the center.
The end result...I can now pull up beyond C on the G string. This is with the action lower than it was before. Sweet. It worked out good. I was super carefull when I did all of this.
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