Frets not seated properly - need your input

[JacksonWarrior]

Im having the same problem with my 2001 WRMG: "Yes Henrik, those frets are not seated." I thought about purchasing some cauls and a press to reseat them myself and also some files to level and crown cuz I want to do my own repairs like this, already do my own setups quite well, so I figure why not. Bit too expensive right now. Anyway, looks to me like those flat spots arent from playing but from being filed to compensate for their excess hight since they arent seated. Could be wrong, but unless you/previous owner did some SERIOUS bending on those frets, they wouldnt wear that uniformly and flat, they'd be more divits judging by how my frets have worn. Great pics BTW. Sweet axe.

[Budman68]

First of all, my friend, you know how I feel about that particular guitar-

Second, I've seen the detail and care you put into any work you do and there is no doubt in my mind you could handle that job. Read as much as you can, practice on a crappy neck etc, etc....you already know the drill..

But, if you're too busy with the house (you are, correct?) if you feel at all uncomfortable, take the advice from all of us here and find someone reputable that can.

[jackson1]

No good luthiers over yonder? Hmm, gives me an idea. Maybe you could learn and be the best in the region!

That's a great idea. And I would probably like the job, hmmmm...

Anyway, looks to me like those flat spots arent from playing but from being filed to compensate for their excess hight since they arent seated.

I agree, but since I'm experiencing buzz, either the job wasn't done properly or the frets must have risen even more.

First of all, my friend, you know how I feel about that particular guitar-

Probably the same feeling I get when you post that 1991 Ltd. Ed. Arch Top. It makes your heart ache, doesn't it?

And true about the house. All my time at the moment is work, house restoration, music mixing and mastering and JCF. My JCF post ratio is down to a few a day, that's how bad it is!

Thanks all, for the great advice you've given.

[ihocky2]

First thing I would try is a fret punch. It is basically a normal chisel head brass punch that has the end flattened and a groove ground into it to fit over the crown of the fret. One good whack with a hammer usually does the trick. Stewmac sells them. And at a heck of a lot cheaper then the cost of a press and all of the arbors needed. Just place the area of the neck your working with on a back of sand or something similar. You want something that will back up the neck nicely, but will easily comform to the shape. I have a small canvas bag filled with sand that weighs about 20 lbs. If that doesn't work, then the barbs have stripped out the wood and it needs glue. Use some CA or some epoxy and us a syringe to get it under the fret and and then you can use the punch to help press the fret down until the glue cures. Fretting tools get expensive quick, so I would price a fret dressing versus the tools.

[kelly user]

#3 loks like there is a bit of tang still on the tip, i would pull the frets, and reseat them correctly.

[JacksonWarrior]

Hey while were on the subject: When you level frets you of course have the strings removed so there is no tension to counter the truss and the neck is allowed to relax(less relief). So when you go to level the frets, they are going to be on a different plane relative to eachother than when the strings are on and the neck is flat or has some relief. Is this an issue or is the change in the neck shape small enough that it doesnt matter? Just wanted to get some expert advice while this threads in their attention.

[kelly user]

when there is no tension on the neck, it is usually straight.

[LexLuthier]

Just my opinion, but if it were my guitar, I think I would just refret it. Whenever I run into a loose fret, I find that there are usually more than just one on the neck. Loose frets = lost tone and sustain.

[Twisteramps]

when there is no tension on the neck, it is usually straight.

Usually backbows for me... if you know how to sight a neck, it's easy to set a neck to straight without any strings. Or get a good straightedge, lay it on the neck, being sure it's straight (so you don't get any weirdness from the radius) and use it.

If you are going to refret and you don't get the neck straight first, forget it, take it to a luthier. You're just asking for problems.

Pete

[JacksonWarrior]

Usually backbows for me... if you know how to sight a neck, it's easy to set a neck to straight without any strings. Or get a good straightedge, lay it on the neck, being sure it's straight (so you don't get any weirdness from the radius) and use it.

If you are going to refret and you don't get the neck straight first, forget it, take it to a luthier. You're just asking for problems.

Pete

So say Im going to level my frets: First I remove the strings and allow the neck to settle for a bit, then sight down, or take a straight edge to the neck and see if it is straight or has backbow. If straight, file away. If backbowed, adjust the truss rod so its straight, then level the frets. Is this accurate? The thing I still wonder about though is, when the guitar IS strung its likely gonna have some relief, some concaveness, so basically Im leveling the frets on plane that is unlike the one I play on. Should the neck shape be identical to how it is when its strung and in a playworthy setup when you level the frets?

[ihocky2]

They even sell straight edges with notches to fit over the frets. Specifically to straighten the neck when doing fret work. If you have a good straight edge, you can make your own. Take a precision straight edge and then use that to find one at home depot that is just as flat and a lot cheaper than a precision one. Mark your fret positions on the cheap on and use a dremel with a cut off wheel to notch out the straight edge. And then recheck to make sure everything is still flat.

[LexLuthier]

I've found that a neck jig comes in handy, especially for thin, flexable necks like a lot of shred guitars have. Sometimes thin necks do strange things under string tension, and it is best to do the fret work while the neck is under tension. I've run into C/J's that have had the dreaded 2nd fret hump in the fingerboard from the headstock joint that sometimes disappear without string tension.

If you have a Plek machine near you, that would be the best way to go for a precise fret level even if it costs a little more. CNC accurate fret leveling, it's awesome! It is 100k for the machine, so not many repair shops have them.

[HuntinDoug]

Just my opinion, but if it were my guitar, I think I would just refret it. Whenever I run into a loose fret, I find that there are usually more than just one on the neck. Loose frets = lost tone and sustain.

Ditto....

+1 on the plekk also. I've owned one guitar that was plekked, and it played very smooth. A plekked guitar is especially nice if you like your action super low.