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JT6 Bridge Problem

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  • JT6 Bridge Problem

    Hi there. Having some problems with my bridge so if anyone has any helpful insight I would surely appreciate it.

    I have an '88 Soloist with the JT6 bridge. The problem I keep having is that the circular hole in the bridge that holds the whammy bar always gets loose. The more I use it, the looser it gets. Am I missing something, or is there a way to clamp this thing down once and for all?

    Design flaw? Is this inevitable?

  • #2
    As far as I can remember, there is a locknut underneath the bridge plate. Just tighten this and use a flat head screwdriver to hold the other side still.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by SEAN RAF View Post
      As far as I can remember, there is a locknut underneath the bridge plate. Just tighten this and use a flat head screwdriver to hold the other side still.
      Not on the JT6. They use those pop-in bars, and he'll need new bushings for it, or a new arm altogether. The bushings just wear out over time. Ibanez pop-in bars will work fine in there, too.
      I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by toejam View Post
        Not on the JT6. They use those pop-in bars, and he'll need new bushings for it, or a new arm altogether. The bushings just wear out over time. Ibanez pop-in bars will work fine in there, too.

        Just had a dig around in my shed for an old JT6, there is a lock nut underneath the plate and you can tighten it up using a 10mm spanner and a flat head screwdriver.


        "the circular hole in the bridge that holds the whammy bar always gets loose."

        I took this to mean the circular hole in the bridge.

        The two bushings on the bar do wear down also.

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        • #5
          Thank you. I keep tightening it but it keeps getting loose.

          I guess I have to deal with it or get an original Floyd. I'm assuming I wouldn't have this problem with a real Floyd Rose, right? Those whammy bars don't pop into the bridge like on the JT6 do they?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by SEAN RAF View Post
            Just had a dig around in my shed for an old JT6, there is a lock nut underneath the plate and you can tighten it up using a 10mm spanner and a flat head screwdriver.


            "the circular hole in the bridge that holds the whammy bar always gets loose."

            I took this to mean the circular hole in the bridge.

            The two bushings on the bar do wear down also.
            Ah, I haven't seen a JT6 in quite some time. I believe that's just to tighten the arm assembly in place and nothing to do with the play of the arm itself.
            I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nsubulysses View Post
              Thank you. I keep tightening it but it keeps getting loose.

              I guess I have to deal with it or get an original Floyd. I'm assuming I wouldn't have this problem with a real Floyd Rose, right? Those whammy bars don't pop into the bridge like on the JT6 do they?
              A real Floyd doesn't use a pop-in bar. The JT6 assembly can be taken out and retrofitted with a Floyd arm and collar.
              I feel my soul go cold... only the dead are smiling.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SEAN RAF View Post
                Just had a dig around in my shed for an old JT6, there is a lock nut underneath the plate and you can tighten it up using a 10mm spanner and a flat head screwdriver."the circular hole in the bridge that holds the whammy bar always gets loose."
                I took this to mean the circular hole in the bridge.
                That is correct:
                Here's a top view, the slots in the round 'arm housing' is for the flat blade screwdriver (pics courtesy of Henrik):


                In this view, look across and see the 'arm housing lock nut' up tight to the back side of the plate. This you tighten with the 10mm wrench:


                Here's a closeup of that area, HOWEVER the nut is backed off:


                I believe there are threads in the plate. So first back off the locking nut, then tighten the arm housing with the flat blade screwdriver into the plate, then spin the lock nut up against the plate. While holding the arm housing tight with the flat blade screwdriver, tighten the lock nut with the 10mm wrench. If you've done all that and it still gets loose, you could add some blue loctite threadlocker or teflon tape.

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                • #9
                  If you can't get it to tighten, the best solution is to get a Floyd arm & socket and replace the shot JT-6 arm. It's a $12 - $15 fix, and you end up with a better arm. Many people here have done it. The only slightly tricky part is that you need to enlarge the hole just a bit. Basically, you just need to file (or scrape with a large flathead screwdriver) to the depth of the threads, and the ofr bushing will fit perfectly. The baseplate metal is so soft, it's super easy.

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                  • #10
                    Wow, very great. Thanks so much. It would be very awesome to get an ofr arm and put it in the JT6 and avoiding getting a whole Floyd. Very pricey.

                    I know the JT6 is a cheaper version of an original Floyd, but aside from the JT6 being built with cheaper, more easily breakable metal, does it stay in tune as well as an ofr?
                    Last edited by nsubulysses; 05-17-2007, 03:25 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Every JT6 I've ever used has been just as good in use as an OFR. The problem, as you've pointed out, is the cheap metal it's made of. My main gripe with the JT6 is the allen bolts rounding off, even when using the correct allen key.

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