JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

[jackson1]

For verification i'd be glad if someone could post a sharp close up picture of an original JT6 lock nut.

What's the best solution if i want to get rid of the JT6 lock nut? Kahler replacement? If you have pics of a guitar that has been 'upgraded' from a JT6 lock nut, please post them.

/Henrik

[Budman68]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Here's a pic of the JT6 Locknut:

[img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UADhAmEYFvc7LcntdPLxjZcSmNUI!YE!55xz2t*BGLc0eUlJs OhonhLvgxAiWhW2gRKgqUpvkr5JmR9*juUcs8tvr2DItGfjsHi Yg5fST3148*A9hfP5OnSCZCgAcGQo/JT6locknut.JPG?dc=4675463941770537137[/img]


Dave->

[jackson1]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Ouh thanks Dave, that's very kind of you. Perfect picture [img]graemlins/headbang.gif[/img]

/Henrik

[Jim Shine]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Sometimes you will see people swap the JT6 nut for a Kahler locknut. It is an upgrade, but only really in the metal and plating. The locking feature is still pretty much the same.

[MetalMedal II]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

If the current locknut isn't working well, there's a few things you could try that I have had success with making it better.

First, you can see how worn the the metal blocks (I can't recall their proper name) that the screws attach to. You'll need to remove the locknut from the guitar to assess this. If you find deep grooves in the blocks from the strings, this may partially be why the strings aren't gripping. But you can easily flip them upside-down so a new flat surface is in touch with the strings. If you find deep string grooves on the underside of the housing, well, I really don't know how to fix that. That's one of the main problems with the cheaper metal it's made from. Maybe someone with good welding skills could fill in these grooves?

Second, change out those flat-blade screws for allen wrench style ones found on Floyds. I know one of the selling points of these, was that you could use a coin to tighten/lock the strings, but I could never get as much torque with a coin as I could with an allen wrench. They're metric, and also the same size as what's found on Floyd Rose. You can buy these at a Lowes or other store.

Other than that, you could switch out this one for a real Kahler-made one, but you'll need to dowel and redrill the mounting holes, as one brand has slightly narrower spacing as the other. This isn't a big deal, but it does take another step to swap em. The Kahler is made of better metal, but you can still get wear grooves in them.

Or you could get rid of the damn thing and the nut and get a Floyd rose-type locking nut installed! [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] There, problem solved! [img]graemlins/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

[jackson1]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Originally posted by MetalMedal II:
Or you could get rid of the damn thing and the nut and get a Floyd rose-type locking nut installed! [img]graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] There, problem solved! [img]graemlins/images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">See, this is where it gets interesting. I am considering this, though it needs major alterations to the guitar and the wood. I wish someone had done this and could post pictures.

The JT6 lock nut & bone nut irritates me and it's a bad design. Strings are not aligned properly by the lock nut, so they sometimes move/slip. Just look at the high E string in Dave's photo. Yeah, the blocks are worn and my bone nut is gripping some of the strings. Lots of small annoying stuff that could be cured with a Floyd lock nut.

/Henrik

[MetalMedal II]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Yeah, the system is not without its problems but it could still be set up to stay in tune. If the bone nut is pinching the strings, that'll definitely be a source of aggravation. Widening the string slot and/or some graphite lube will help to keep them from binding. Also, some of the locknuts I've seen are shimmed up from the headstock, so there's no excessive downward pressure created by the locknut onto the nut itself. My Model 2 I got new never had this, but the Model 4 I got later (used) did have it, and I think it really makes a difference in keeping the strings from binding too much so it stays in tune better.

To switch to a floyd nut, it wouldn't be too much of a problem...just get someone with experience to help you! Personally, I'd yield to a luthier pro for that one.

[PowerTube]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

You know what would be a good idea on the JT6? A string retainer that not only holds the strings down but also holds them in line with the nut. It would need five slots, since only the A string is usually aligned naturally on a standard headstock. On a reverse head, it would be the B (??) string?

Either way, it would help.

[MetalMedal II]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Kahler actually made a Floyd-like locking nut with a string retainer built it that they put on some of the later Model series, like the 3DR. Here's a pick of one on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=7266

It's kinda cool, cos it keeps the strings in line with enough downward pressure so you don't need those string trees like Ibanez's have. Of course, this usually isn't a prob with Jackson/Chavels cos of their tilt back headstock. But you're right, it's too bad there isn't a similar thing for the behind the nut locks.

[i8guitar]

Re: JT6 tremolo lock nut verification

Perhaps this isn't an option for you, but you could remove the locknut, and install locking tuners, such as Sperzels. I think they work as well as a locknut, but then again, it's not like I am doing wild divebombs and rubbing the trem bar all over the strings (at least not in public [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Personally, I think the tone is better with a regular nut opposed to a locking nut, especially compared to the Floyd type with the integrated string slots.