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Squire neck makeover time

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  • Squire neck makeover time

    Well I haven't had this thing more than an hour and I've already begun tearing it apart.

    It was in good shape when I got it except the frets and the board needed help.
    It was showing it's age and them tiny frets were grooved pretty good.
    The nut was worn to the point that the strings had left marks on the fret board behind the nut.
    I got a great deal on it, so no worries.

    On to the deconstruction.

    First the logo went.


    Frets were fried and that knot in the board is actually a crack...




    So off with the frets...



    They were so loose that most flew across the room when I pried them up.
    One is MIA under the fridge some where.




    Using Dave's thread as a guide... it was off with the board!



    Worked like a charm until I hit what appeared to be a clump of really tough epoxy that caused the board to split in half when it gave while I pried up on it.



    All done for now.



    Just need to clean it up and then start looking at different board options.

    Nut measures at 1 11/16" wide and it was a 22 fretter.
    Since I'm a maple board guy, it may get a PC1 treatment.
    Flame board, jumbo frets and NO markers.

    We'll see.

    More to come...
    -Rick

  • #2
    all you old people have the best fun!!!!!!!!! :ROTF: great job i can't wait to see the finished product! i love those squire necks they feel really comfy.
    "slappy, slappy" bill sings, happily, as he dick slaps random people on the streets of Cleveland.

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    • #3
      Yea... this one is nice and thick. Very comfy and reminds me of my PC1's neck profile.
      I was expecting a 1 5/8" nut, but was pleasantly surprised when it measured 1 11/16" right on the money.

      I'm going to put this on a Floyded guitar, so I need to make sure I account for the nut shelf when I cut the new board.
      -Rick

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      • #4
        Keep up the thread, this is really informative and cool. to this date, neck-work like this is the one thing I haven't really touched.
        I'm not Ron!

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        • #5
          This is my fist time doing a full board replacement.
          I've done refrets before, which I think is the hard part, and I've done veneer tops on bodies, so this should be fairly straight forward.
          I'm going to cheat a little and get a pre-slotted board.

          At that point it will be a matter of lining it up, gluing it down, shaping and sanding the board, installing frets, level and dress them and then finish sanding the edges. Oh yea... routing the Floyd shelf and installing the nut.

          But that is why I bought a cheap Squire neck in the first place... something to learn on that isn't going to hurt my wallet too bad if I fuck it up.
          (I only paid $20 for it. )
          -Rick

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          • #6
            looking cool man cant wait to see the finished product
            Say, I smell bacon.Does anyone else smell bacon?
            Yeah, I definitely smell a pork product of some type.

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            • #7
              good to see, Rick! I'm sure you've already thought of it but thought I'd mention this, you'll have to fill those fret marker "half holes" in the neck and that way when you put the new board on, you can redrill for new markers since you obviously can't drill half of a hole right?

              lookin' good!
              Dave ->

              "would someone answer that damn phone?!?!"

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              • #8
                Hey Dave, you're right on about the half circle holes for the fret markers.
                They will be filled and then re-drilled when I get the new board.

                Anybody know of any good suppliers for fingerboards?
                I'm looking for something beyond your basic Rosewood or plain Maple board.
                All my past resources don't have anything interesting.
                -Rick

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                • #9
                  I don't blame you at all for going with a pre-slotted board. Exactly what I'd do. Save a lot of time and hassle. If it were me, I'd also give the pocket end of the board a nice flat cut, ala Charvel, if I could, as opposed to the standard Fender, rounded board end-face. Can't wait to see the finished product.
                  I'm not Ron!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rjohnstone View Post
                    Hey Dave, you're right on about the half circle holes for the fret markers.
                    They will be filled and then re-drilled when I get the new board.

                    Anybody know of any good suppliers for fingerboards?
                    I'm looking for something beyond your basic Rosewood or plain Maple board.
                    All my past resources don't have anything interesting.
                    www.lmii.com

                    2009 Les Paul Kit - GFS Dream 90 (N), SD Seth Lover (B)
                    2009 Gibson Les Paul Worn Brown
                    2009 Epiphone Studio Deluxe
                    2008 Epiphone Custom - SD P-Rail(N), Fat Pat (B)
                    2008 Ovation Celebrity CC48
                    2007 Agile AL3000 - SD Alinco II set
                    2005 Epiphone Standard - SD Pearly Gate (N),SD Alinco II (B)
                    2004 Epiphone Custom Plus Top
                    2004 Gibson SG Faded - Stock
                    1997 Epiphone Slash Snakepit
                    1995 Fender Strat - SD Lil 59' Bridge, SD Hotrail Middle, Stock Neck


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                    • #11
                      Seen them before.
                      Great non Maple selection.

                      I'm looking for a good flame or quilt Maple board.
                      Not many out there.
                      Lots of plain Maple though.
                      -Rick

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                      • #12
                        could you post a link to Dave's guide on how to strip off the fretboard off the neck? it looks like it came off like budda

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                        • #13
                          Last edited by j4vice; 09-14-2007, 02:30 PM.
                          JvicE

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Ruxspin View Post
                            could you post a link to Dave's guide on how to strip off the fretboard off the neck? it looks like it came off like budda
                            Do a search for "My wife the luthier".
                            Dave gave a pretty straight forward description of how to remove a fret board.
                            Not hard at all... just take your time and don't rush it.

                            I'm still not having any luck finding pre-cut flame or quilt Maple boards.
                            Tons of birds eye and regular Maple.
                            -Rick

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                            • #15
                              Still no luck finding a pre-cut/slotted flame or quilt Maple board.

                              Warmoth and Stewmac have plain Maple boards, but both are 10" radius only.
                              Stewmac offers pre-cut and slotted compound radius boards 10"-16", but not in Maple.

                              I guess I could get the 10" and make it a compound radius board, but I know I'm not that good yet.

                              This is damn frustrating.
                              I can fret the thing myself... that's not hard at all, but it would be sweet to find a pre-fretted board, but that would be to easy.

                              Anyone have any other suppliers they now of?
                              -Rick

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