What is the best way to fill large amounts of wood? I need to know as I plan on redoing my Tele project and need to fill out 2 humbucker routes and a control route. Also, whats the best way to get it flat and smooth?
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Well, there is Bondo. But if I were me, I would use blocks of the same wood the body is made of and align (sp) the grain. Then I would make the blocks a wee tad smaller so the glue can set. But the height of the blocks must be higher than the body. Then, I would glue the blocks in and let it cure for I don't know how long. The new and old wood have to get along.:ROTF: That's what I wood do. \\rainI am a true ass set to this board.
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Originally posted by fett View PostWell, there is Bondo. But if I were me, I would use blocks of the same wood the body is made of and align (sp) the grain. Then I would make the blocks a wee tad smaller so the glue can set. But the height of the blocks must be higher than the body. Then, I would glue the blocks in and let it cure for I don't know how long. The new and old wood have to get along.:ROTF: That's what I wood do. \\rain
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If you really want it to look good and not have the filled routes show back up, there are a couple ways to go. One is the traditional wood fill, followed by a wood veneer. The other is to use Bondo, then do a thin layer of 2-part polyester glazing putty (Evercoat) over the top, then sand, prime & paint. This is the method Mark (mm2002) uses, and the results he gets are awesome, like Budman's pink Model 6 & the crazy Rhoads project he did in the famous "Fun with Bondo" thread. Unfortunately, none of the pics are working in any of the old threads I checked.
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Originally posted by dg View PostIf you really want it to look good and not have the filled routes show back up, there are a couple ways to go. One is the traditional wood fill, followed by a wood veneer. The other is to use Bondo, then do a thin layer of 2-part polyester glazing putty (Evercoat) over the top, then sand, prime & paint. This is the method Mark (mm2002) uses, and the results he gets are awesome, like Budman's pink Model 6 & the crazy Rhoads project he did in the famous "Fun with Bondo" thread. Unfortunately, none of the pics are working in any of the old threads I checked.
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I need to bump this for something extremely important:
When I go to route the controls, I think I may have to route a bit of the filler in cavity. I am very nervous that the wood filler won't hold once 90% of whats behind it is taken out, and thus it falls out. Is there anyway to be sure that I won't run into this, besides routing my controls around it?
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Originally posted by CharvelRocker View PostI need to bump this for something extremely important:
When I go to route the controls, I think I may have to route a bit of the filler in cavity. I am very nervous that the wood filler won't hold once 90% of whats behind it is taken out, and thus it falls out. Is there anyway to be sure that I won't run into this, besides routing my controls around it?
Bondo is great as long as it has something to hold onto, but if you're taking away 90% of it's adhesion area, it will fall out.
A glued in wood piece will bond better with the sides of the filled pocket.-Rick
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Originally posted by rjohnstone View PostIf you're going to be routing in a previously filled area, you should glue in a wood filler piece.
Bondo is great as long as it has something to hold onto, but if you're taking away 90% of it's adhesion area, it will fall out.
A glued in wood piece will bond better with the sides of the filled pocket.
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Bondo as in the fiberglass resin? Yeah, that works great. If you're a tone purist, you might do like fett said and glue a piece of wood about the same shape, maybe a bit smaller, then fill up the rest with fiberglass resin. Though i've done mods/repairs on several guitars using only fiberglass and they sounded fine."It wasn't the world being round that agitated people, but that the world wasn't flat. [ ... ]
The truth will seem utterly preposterous, and its speaker, a raving lunatic."
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