If you are going to spec out a neck to be built, and the headstock is going to be painted and clear coated, is it better to have the decal put on under the clear cloat? Does it really matter? What does Charvel typically do in this regard?
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Originally posted by rjohnstone View PostUnder the clear... it will be better protected._________________________________________________
"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
- Ken M
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Originally posted by Axewielder View PostYeah, that's what I thought...but....if I had Musikraft or Warmoth or somebody like that build and finish the neck, I'm sure they would groan about putting a Fender/Jackson/Charvel decal on under the clear, even if I sent them the decal.
just do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine.
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Originally posted by 69dodgecharger View Postjust do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine.
Current Charvels are silk screened on. Older models had clearcoat over the decal and most Pre-Pro's had no clearcoat (similar to old Fenders).Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
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Originally posted by 69dodgecharger View Postjust do it yourself, its not hard. just need to read up on the task at hand and you'll be fine._________________________________________________
"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
- Ken M
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Just have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.
Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over.-Rick
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Originally posted by rjohnstone View PostJust have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.
Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over._________________________________________________
"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
- Ken M
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personal preference and all, but i always shoot a layer of clear on the headstock first, sand it flat, then logo it, then clear again. dunno why i do that, but it always seemed like a good idea to me. headstocks are a breeze, you can probably do it yourself.
sully
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Originally posted by rjohnstone View PostJust have them leave the face of the headstock unfinished.
When you get it, apply the decal then take it to your local auto body shop and have them shoot some clear on the headstock the next time they have to shoot clear on a body. One coat will be fine.
Just make sure you tape it up and mask it off before you hand it over.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
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Originally posted by sully View Postheadstocks are a breeze, you can probably do it yourself._________________________________________________
"Artists should be free to spend their days mastering their craft so that working people can toil away in a more beautiful world."
- Ken M
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:ROTF: Sully beat me to it. The clear over the wood seals the wood from the decal. If it's a waterslide, obviously the water while appling the decal will raise the wood grain and you will have a mess including bubbles. If it's a dry transfer, the wood is perfectly leveled with the the decal with on a clear sealer or paint. The sealed wood gives better adhesion for the transfer.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
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Originally posted by Axewielder View PostMaybe, but I'm not really set up to do anything more sophisticated than hit it with a rattle-can.Tone is like Art: Your opinion is valid. Listen, learn, have fun, draw your own conclusions.
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Originally posted by Bengal65 View Post:ROTF: Sully beat me to it. The clear over the wood seals the wood from the decal. If it's a waterslide, obviously the water while appling the decal will raise the wood grain and you will have a mess including bubbles. If it's a dry transfer, the wood is perfectly leveled with the the decal with on a clear sealer or paint. The sealed wood gives better adhesion for the transfer.
i have to say that i got really good results on mayday's mayniax (a warmoth variax) with spray lacquer. all reports have been that it's holding up over time. and really, if you just need to clear the face of a headstock, you can get by with a decent spray lacquer.
sully
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oh. one other thing. if you want a satin finish, (if you're just putting the logo on the headstock without wanting to paint it) get yourself a few cans of krylon's satin clear #1313. someone who will remain nameless shared with me that that's what jackson used on satin finish touchups (usually on warranty work or the imports). it's REALLY effin easy; a few medium coats on the face of the headstock, apply the logo, then shoot 4 or so medium coats over it. i've used it on my natural logoed headstocks and it's a freekin' breeze; no sanding, no buffing, just shoot it even and you're allllll good.
sully
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