OFR and Floyd Rose Pro interchangeable when non-recessed?

[Axewielder]

From what I've gathered from searching other threads, the routings for the OFR and the Floyd Rose Pro are different when they are recessed (on account of the locking bolts). However, if I have a body that is routed for a non-recessed Floyd, can I use either? I am interested in going with the Floyd Rose Pro because of the 2.00" string spread versus 2.10" on the OFR.

[rjohnstone]

Either trem would fit on the posts as the spacing is the same. (2.91")

[toejam]

I'm thinking of putting a Floyd Pro on my Charvel Star, too. The string spacing doesn't matter to me, but I seem to prefer the angle of the saddles more on the Pro.

I was also thinking of doing it to my Brian Moore, but it's recessed.

[Axewielder]

Either trem would fit on the posts as the spacing is the same. (2.91")

Awesome, so I assume the route for the sustain block is the same as well?

EDIT: Hmm.....I'm looking at the routing templates now, and am seeing some differences on that sustain block route. It doesn't appear to be the same (although they are marked up differently and you damn near have to be a mechanical engineer to figure this out, so hell if I know).

[Axewielder]

Daaaaaaaaaamn. I took the two routing templates, flipped them in the same direction, scaled them to the same scale, and compared them. Red is the FRP and black is the OFR:



Clearly the sustain block route is significantly different between the two. Daaaaaaaaaamn.

[37fiat]

The sustain block rout may be the least of your worries. The area behind the block rout (tuner clearance rout) needs to be deeper than on an OFR, as the "fingers" on the pro hang under the main plate by a good 3/8".

It's unlikely that if it's surface mounted that there would be enough clearance for the tuner fingers that hang down, unless of course if the plate is sitting 1/2" above the body.

Check out the difference between the Pro on the left and the OFR on the right.

[DrDoug]

The width of the rout hole through the body does not have to be as wide as the FRP template shows, but you do have to add some depth to the back shelf under the tuners. You also have to remove material at the back of the through hole to keep the inertia block from hitting it when dive bombing. Plus removing a bit off the high E side of the rout, from the stud insert to the back.

I made up some better dimensional drawings to work from when I upgraded my RR3 to the FRP. Once I figured out that it was possible, it took about 15 minutes with the Dremel to clearance everything. It is a one way job though, once you fit it for a Pro there is no going back without plugging and starting over. Plus the back pocket will be too big (from the OFR or licensed trem) but on a black guitar it is almost unnoticeable. I am going to fill that area on mine when I paint this spring, that way it will be specifically fitted for the FRP as if it came from the factory with it.

I may see if I can land another RR3 body to do, that way I can play my guitar up to the day I switch bodies. If I do that, I will probably finish this body (fill the back shelf area too) for the FRP too, paint it and sell it off to someone who wants a Pro fitted to the RR3. I will dig the drawings up and post them in a bit. With measurements and shading, it is easier to understand the differences.

[DrDoug]

Here are some diagrams I worked up. I have some others that are better but I have to figure out where I stashed them. These should work for now though.

[mustaine-who?]

Excellent

Excellent work bro...

Here are some diagrams I worked up. I have some others that are better but I have to figure out where I stashed them. These should work for now though.

[Axewielder]

Good info here. It sounds like the Floyd Pro doesn't even allow for a totally non-recessed install because of those "fingers"? It doesn't matter, my body has a high-end paint job and I really can't dremel those routes out.

[HiOctane]

This is all good information, but I'd like to ask how everyone like the Pro? I haven't played one, but I think it would be a great feature to have the fine tuners out of the way. Any thoughts on the feel and tone vs. the OFR?
I would think they would be very similar...

[DrDoug]

I am not everyone, but I love the Pro over the licensed unit. Not having the fine tuners in the way makes it more like a conventional tremolo. I like the clarity of working the strings over the bridge pickup, and with the old trem that just sucked. With the fine tuners tilted back on the Pro, it is not even an issue.

Night and day, IMO. I have never owned an OFR, so I can only speak about the licensed unit.

[toejam]

The saddles are angled a little more on the Pro and not flat like the Original. The fine tuners don't bother me either way, but I prefer the angled saddles of the Pro. I think I'll just stick with the OFR for now, though.

[thesoloist]

Hmm does it matter if you clear the shelf under the fine tuners greater than .6? (i mean, isn't it going to be floating anyway?) Just got my floyd pro and am working with a dk2m body. It also seems that the floyd pro is going to hit the edge of route as seen in the picture below so I'll probaly sand it back a bit. What type of paint do you recommend for painting the inside of the cavity (just need black without clear coating or anything as your not really going to see it)?

[DrDoug]

I went and shaped the body rout so that it was even all of the way around the Pro, and used semi-gloss black enamel to paint it. Since the body is black, you can barely tell that the rout is a bit bigger than what it would normally be. I plan on squaring it all up when I paint, so I am not concerned about it. With your Floyd being black to begin with, I bet you could shape it like I did, paint the cavity black and nobody could tell unless they were close to you and knew what they were looking for.

Make sure that you get the full motion of the Floyd when it is mounted, and that it is not rubbing, especially the inertia block.