Floyd locking nut routing questions

[LastInLine]

Has anyone ever routed a shelf for a Floyd locking nut? I have a Dremel and a precision router base, but need to come up with some type of a jig or template. Any tips/secrets from anyone who has experience would be greatly apreciated.

[LastInLine]

Come on, someone out there must have done this, no?

[sully]

y'know, i just picked up edition 3 of the erlewine book, and it's on page 100. i'll recap it when i've got some time later today.

[CharvelRocker]

When I did one for my squier strat, I found the issue with the router base is I couldn't get it down far enough and it created a slight lip that was as all hell to get down even. I found it best to just put on the extension shaft and free hand it with the bit. You also have to extremely careful as you get near the corner, as it has a habit of slipping around the corner. In terms of size though, just go until you have room for the nut is really all I can say.

[slash]

I have done several but I use a router table so the jig I designed is different than what you need. A tip I can offer is to use a bit with a bearing collar on it and create a jig with a straight edge and line it up where the front of the shelf needs to be. Take your time and don't try to cut it to depth in one pass.

[Racerx2k]

I made a jig for my Dremel to do exactly this, based on Dan Erlwine's description, in his book. It kinda looks like a square ping pong paddle, and has a groove to slip over the 1st fret. Two u-bolts secure it to the neck, with rubber matting between them, to guard the wood, and a height-adjustable piece that rests on the headstock, to ensure that it runs true to the fretboard. Works wonderfully.

[J.C. Harrist]

I use a router table too. I have cauls to set the neck on so that it sits flat, then just run it through with the miter gauge. You just need to make sure you have the miter gauge set so that the nut is 90* with the guide groove. With the right width bit, you can do it in one pass.

[LastInLine]

y'know, i just picked up edition 3 of the erlewine book, and it's on page 100. i'll recap it when i've got some time later today.

I have his 2nd edition and he touches on the subject. Unfortunately, his method is not real conducive to the equipment I have.

The easiest way would be what Slash suggested in his reply, but I can't find a router bit with a bearing guide which has a small enough shaft diameter to fit in a Dremel.

I made a jig for my Dremel to do exactly this, based on Dan Erlwine's description, in his book. It kinda looks like a square ping pong paddle, and has a groove to slip over the 1st fret. Two u-bolts secure it to the neck, with rubber matting between them, to guard the wood, and a height-adjustable piece that rests on the headstock, to ensure that it runs true to the fretboard. Works wonderfully.

Any chance you could post a picture of that jig?

I use a router table too. I have cauls to set the neck on so that it sits flat, then just run it through with the miter gauge. You just need to make sure you have the miter gauge set so that the nut is 90* with the guide groove. With the right width bit, you can do it in one pass.

I actually thought of trying that method but with my table saw. As long as I set the blade to the precise height and make sure I'm 90 degrees to the blade as you stated, I don't see why that wouldn't work.


Thanks to all for the replies so far.