To answer my own Q;, the green wire is still not a certainty, but it doesn't matter at this point.
I checked everything out that I could without power, and no obvious shorts, or other glaring issues, except a canister cap that serves as the power filtering, and one leg is for the power tube grid leak bias circuit. Capacitance tested ok, but that doesn't mean much on an electroytic that has shot the wad.
So, I stuck some tubes in it, and got my answer fast...A nice smooth, 120HZ hum through the speakers, and a PT that heated up real fast. So, good news, no shorts, bad news, that rare can cap is shot.
Start digging around for another cap or two to make things work...and I found an old switching pot that might work for the tone/switch control. Cool. Also found a NOS cap
with two lugs, same value. Screw it, let's try re-forming it while I shop for the replacement cap. I can use another electrolytic for the grid bias.
So, that's where we're at right now.
I still think the green wire goes to a neg. feedback circuit. We'll see.
I checked everything out that I could without power, and no obvious shorts, or other glaring issues, except a canister cap that serves as the power filtering, and one leg is for the power tube grid leak bias circuit. Capacitance tested ok, but that doesn't mean much on an electroytic that has shot the wad.
So, I stuck some tubes in it, and got my answer fast...A nice smooth, 120HZ hum through the speakers, and a PT that heated up real fast. So, good news, no shorts, bad news, that rare can cap is shot.
Start digging around for another cap or two to make things work...and I found an old switching pot that might work for the tone/switch control. Cool. Also found a NOS cap
with two lugs, same value. Screw it, let's try re-forming it while I shop for the replacement cap. I can use another electrolytic for the grid bias.
So, that's where we're at right now.
I still think the green wire goes to a neg. feedback circuit. We'll see.
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