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That's a standard config that Carvin uses. You have to make sure there is no string binding at the nut. I think it can work well if you have straight string pull through the nut, but I wouldn't recommend it for for a J/C with a pointy headstock because the angle the strings take through the nut makes it really hard to eliminate string binding. I've had friends who are fine with just locking tuners, but I personally wouldn't go that route, especially if you're going to use the bar heavily.
I have a carvin DC125, when it arrived I was surprized to see that it had spezel's and a lock nut. I wanted the lock nut only but I guess they come this way??? Just to entertain my curiosity, I loosed the lock nut and played it the way I normally do and used the bar and wouldn't you know it, out of tune. Not terribly out of tune, but enough to easily notice. And yes I stretch the hell out of my strings during changes. I don't even like the sperzel's...if I break a high E-string and just want to do a temp. fix at least with regular tuners if I put enough wraps on them I can just unwind the string some and put it back in the block (usually when I break a string it's at the bridge)-not too often though thankfully. For a Floyd, stick with the regular lock nut.
2 BC Rich USA Gunslinger's-lightning bolt graphic
BC Rich USA Mockingbird-candy apple red metallic
BC Rich USA STIII-gray snakeskin
Ibanez RG770DX-lazer blue
Kramer Sustainer American-black
Nutless floyd rofl. Whoops, sorry. Useless post there. I must be a noob trying to pad my way up to the 100 post limi.. dammit. No, absolutely no point to this post.
But think about it. The idea behind Floyd Rose's double-locking tuning system is to isolate the speaking length of the string. Thereby eliminating tuning problems caused by tension being transferred to sections of the strings that you don't play on (ie the non-speaking length).
The question is, why would you want to defeat the Floyd's optimal tuning stability?
please don't put it into words, 'cause I fear what you're thinking
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