What to Use for Natural Finish?

[slowhand66]

Hi everyone,

I'm building a parts guitar, starting off with an unfinished one piece mahogony body. I'm thinking about leaving the body "natural". Anyone with knowledge about how to treat the body? Danish oil, tung oil? How many coats? Other suggestions?

I did a Forum search but didn't come up with anything directly on point. Thanks for any help.

[Bengal65]

If your set on an oil finish, my favorite is Danish Oil. It also comes in shaded colors as well as clear. First there is no need to use grain filler normally needed with a hard finish on Mah. What I do, is put a couple of coats of Danish Oil on the body after sanding down using 400 grit paper. The brush method works best here. Then let it cure for 24 hours. Then get a big plastic tub that the body can fit into. I use a Rubbermaid rectangular plastic tub. Pour some danish oil in the tub and some wet/dry 600 grit paper. Also, I use a sanding block. Start applying the oil with the sandpaper and sand while applying the oil. The slurry created by sanding with the oil will fill the grain. Now this is where the fun comes in. This is the same technique as with grain filler. Take a squeege or 2 old plastic credit card type material and squeege the surface of the guitar diagonal to the grain. (Wood worker supply shops as well as Stew Mac have the squeege's). Wipe the edges with a cloth. Let dry 48-72 hours. Finally, start the oil treatment again sanding any dried slurry off. Put some oil on the rag and wipe the whole body down again. Hang and let dry another 72 hours. Your ready to go! I learned this technique from an old woodworker friend that used to build fireplace mantels from Mahogany and other porous woods. Works great!

Caution notes:
1. Wear gloves!
2. Dispose the rags in a bucket of water. If left to dry in the air they can spontanously combust!

A hard trans clear or tinted finish is your next option. But that's a whole nother story

[slowhand66]

Thanks, very helpful. I found a furniture wood finishing site that had a somewhat similar process, using Watco Danish Oil, with several tints to choose from as well. Using the sand and oil as surry makes perfect sense. Thinking about going a slight shade darker, but can't decide yet.

Other than Danish Oil, my other option is to Tru-Oil it a couple times. A simple process and maintains the near-natural color. I guess it's a matter of degree, not kind, yet I sense it will be a big decision for me.

Thanks again.

[Bengal65]

No problem. The Watco Danish Oil (what I use) is very thin. The Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, I use for necks is very thick and actually is a varnish in technical terms. From my experience, after several coats the amber tone of the oil kicks in. But, being a varnish it does have nice build qualities on porous woods. The Tru-Oil, like you mentioned, may be a good option for you. 2-3 Coats should do a nice job!

[Budman68]

Bengals process is definitely a great one but if you're into a quicker finish, TUNG oil is a fantastic way to go especially if you actually want to retain the feel of the natural grain of the wood.

Here's a Model 88 that I did using 2 coats of TUNG oil. You get the body smooth as possible, which you already seem to be on your way, apply a saturating coat with a lint free cloth, let dry overnight, bring down the high spots with 0000 steel wool, and then apply another coat, let dry for a few days and then buff with a cotton cloth by hand. After about a month or 2, I like to use johnstons (sp?) past wax in the yellow can.

Before:



After:

[slowhand66]

Wow! Real nice job. Another option to consider... Thanks.