String Change with the Floyd

[Razor]

My best friend has a tremolok, and they do work great. I use an old cordless drill socket extension that I have black taped. I put it in the trem cavity in front of the bridge block between it and the body so the bridge can't go down. It works great for me.

[toejam]

That must have been some damn soft wood for that thing to have caused a dent.
I've used mine on every Floyded guitar I own, including my PC1 and never had any issues with it.

It was supposed to be alder. It was a Yamaha RGZ 321P, basically an H/S/H Ibanez copy. I don't know, I think I might have put it all the way under the back of the Floyd instead of just under the string locking pins. Still not really sure how the hell it happened.

[Jayster]

My best friend has a tremolok, and they do work great. I use an old cordless drill socket extension that I have black taped. I put it in the trem cavity in front of the bridge block between it and the body so the bridge can't go down. It works great for me.

hehehehe - I take around 10 or so guitar picks and stack them under the routed part of the body.This works great for me !!!!

[Special-K]

I use a hard sponge like thing ..(it gets soft if it gets wet) I just fit it
under it right and that is that...
Changed strings in 10mins...

[Super_shredder]

i just stuff an old screwed up piece of clothing and lodge it under the trem

[phill_up]

hehehehe - I take around 10 or so guitar picks and stack them under the routed part of the body.This works great for me !!!!

Whatchoo talkin' bout Willis

[mustaine-who?]

Wow

Wow...I must be old school. I just take the Daddario string package and fold it..then shove it under the trem...works for me?!

[CaptHowdy]

9v battery wrapped in a bit of cloth and taped up with insulation tape. An idea I got from JCF and it works a treat

[joshulator]

10 minutes to change strings? It's usually like an hour for a full set for me. What do you guys do to make it happen so quickly?

[CaptHowdy]

takes me about an hour at moment too but they say it gets easier the more you do it. I've only restrung 4 times so far so i think i've a bit to go

[Razor]

takes me about an hour at moment too but they say it gets easier the more you do it. I've only restrung 4 times so far so i think i've a bit to go

It is easier once you've done it several times. One of the tech threads that really helped me is this one by sully. I'll cut and paste it, but I'd highly recommend reading this... http://www.jcfonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52679

String gauges and Floyds: how to adjust for them
One question popping up more frequently is "What gauge strings should I use to
tune to ---?" It all depends on what you use in standard. The idea is to
maintain consistent string tension no matter what you're tuned to. After years
of experimenting I've found that I can keep the same feel using these general
gauges.

E: 10-46
D: 11-52
C: 12-58
B: 13-60

I am aware that B and C are a half step apart, but that seems like a huge half
step as far as string tension goes. So what if you use a different gauge in
standard? Well, just try a gauge higher or lower than the one listed. Duh.
Really, it's all a matter of experimentation. The above is just a rough
guideline to get started with. You might prefer light tension in one tuning and
heavy tension in another. Just remember, this is music. There aren't any rules,
except don't shoot people you don't know and never, EVER, touch another man's
fries.

The biggest playability problem you might have when tuning down is with the G
string. In some sets of 11's and most 12 and 13 sets I've seen, the G string is
wound. This does make it more difficult to bend, so you'll have to account for
that in your playing. This shouldn't be that much of a hurdle to overcome, but
it may throw you off for a little while. Overall, having thicker strings doesn't
seem to change the feel very much, but your mileage may vary.
Now, the hard part. Setting your guitar up for those new strings.

First a disclaimer so I don't get sued or beat up. If you don't know what the
part is or how it works, don't mess with it. If you haven't adjusted a truss rod
before, don't start now. Take it to a repairman and annoy the hell out of him
while he sets it up to see how it's done. It might cost you more that one time,
but you should understand the basics after seeing it done once or twice.

If you have a Tune-O-Matic equipped guitar, you'll have it fairly easy. String
it up and sight the neck. Adjust the neck until it's as straight as you
normally keep it. At this time, make sure that the strings are sitting properly
in the nut slot. They should not be held in snugly, but shouldn't be flopping
around either. Ideally, the string will sit half of its thickness into the nut.
This is ideal, but almost never happens. As long as the height at the first fret
is satisfactory and the string doesn't bind in the slot, you're good. If the
strings are binding in the slots, either cut them out wider if you know how or
take it to a repairman to get the nut slotted out. For a while, Jackson was
having a problem with kids buying guitars and tuning down, using very heavy
strings, and it was breaking the nuts. The string would wedge itself into the
slot, causing a slight crack, and from there it would just get worse with every
twist of the tuner. It should be noted this was on the 'low end' imports. Don't
think it can't happen to you though. If the strings seat in the nut fine, adjust
the intonation and start playing. You're done.

If you have a trem equipped guitar, there's more work involved but it can still
be done in 10 minutes or less if you practice it enough. Find something to wedge
under the edge of the trem, so the trem will sit flat when the strings are
completely loosened. A small dowel rod will work, but my preferred tool is an
allen wrench with some electrical tape on it. Why? No clue. Made sense at the
time, so it's what I go with. Anyway, wedge that under the baseplate
so the trem's flat and take the strings off. Once they're off, crank the trem
claw in some to tighten the springs. If you're using two trem springs, quit it.
You're not Steve Vai, so quit pretending to be . Besides that, you'll want to
have the added stability that even one extra spring provides. Now string up the
guitar and tune it up to pitch. If it looks like the trem is trying to move,
crank the springs in some more. Once the strings are on and tuned to the pitch
you want, slowly start backing out the trem claw. Check the wedge you used to
flatten the trem every half turn or so to see if it's loose. Once it either
falls out under its own power, or with just a slight pull, it's all set up.

[CaptHowdy]

Sweet razor, thanks for the pointer.

[joshulator]

So in the esteemed opinion of the forum, is blocking the trem the secret to a 10 minute string change (for the full set)?

[toejam]

You can block it to make it easier, but I've changed strings on Floyds since the '80s and haven't had a problem doing it quick with not being blocked. If you use the same gauge and brand strings, it will return back to the same pitch and you shouldn't have to adjust the trem claw at all.

[rjohnstone]

Yep... for a quicky string change using the same gauge, just swap them one at a time.
Pull old one off, string up new one and give it a stretch, then tune to pitch and move onto the next one.
You can do a full swap in under 10 minutes without blocking the trem.