Floyd Nut - top mount and through neck = same?

[Grandturk]

Are the Floyd nuts that mount through the neck the same as the nuts that mount with screws to the top of the neck?

Never bothered to look and am kinda wondering...

[Dogbone]

I just picked up a new Floyd Rose Nut a few weeks ago... It can be used for either top or bottom mount. The mounting holes are counter sunk for the top mount, but are also threaded for the bottom mount hex heads
From what I have been told, this is the way all the Floyd nuts are now.

[Dreamland_Rebel]

there are 2 floyd nut installations.

1. top mount. (nut screws into top of shelf with wood screws)
adv - less wood removed.
disadv - harder to install and get nut lined up properly.

2. through neck. (has the screws that screw into nuts that are inserted from the back of the neck.)
adv - easy to install, lines up perfectly if holes were cut right.
disadv - more wood removed, could be easier for the neck to snap off if dropped on headstock.

[atdguitars]

The old ones were either top or bottom mount only. The through mount seems more stable for some apps. The top mounts will work if it has a good shelf to rest on. Some of the new ones are made to mount either way with the counter sink and threaded holes.

[rjohnstone]

there are 2 floyd nut installations.

1. top mount. (nut screws into top of shelf with wood screws)
adv - less wood removed.
disadv - harder to install and get nut lined up properly.

2. through neck. (has the screws that screw into nuts that are inserted from the back of the neck.)
adv - easy to install, lines up perfectly if holes were cut right.
disadv - more wood removed, could be easier for the neck to snap off if dropped on headstock.

Your disadvantage remark about top mounts fails as you have to do the exact same process for a bottom mount.

All you have to do is place the nut on the shelf, install high and low E strings, line it up, then mark and drill the holes for the screws.
The bottom mount requires one additional step of making a recess for the hex head.

Bottom mount requires the removal of more wood (bigger bolts) and is known for weakening the neck.
Also, if you fuck up on a top mount install, it's easy to toothpick the hole and move the nut. Try doing that to a bottom mount.

[Axewielder]

Also on the bottom mount, the neck doesn't have to "snap off" to cause problems. A lot of times, you just see little hairline cracks around those holes. Top mount all the way!

[Grandturk]

Thanks for the info guys - it really just occurred to me that I've only ever dealt with bottom mount floyd nuts - except for a Kahler version (not the common behind the nut) which was top mount. My Charvel San Dimas is the first top mount Floyd nut I've ever had.

[Dreamland_Rebel]

Your disadvantage remark about top mounts fails as you have to do the exact same process for a bottom mount.

All you have to do is place the nut on the shelf, install high and low E strings, line it up, then mark and drill the holes for the screws.
The bottom mount requires one additional step of making a recess for the hex head.

Bottom mount requires the removal of more wood (bigger bolts) and is known for weakening the neck.
Also, if you fuck up on a top mount install, it's easy to toothpick the hole and move the nut. Try doing that to a bottom mount.

not if the CNC machine has drilled those holes for you, which is the case most of the time.

i've had issues top mounting the nut myself, sometimes the grove catches the side of the walls wrong and pulls one side of the nut away from the fretboard. CNC drilled holes should be lined up perfect making bottom mount installation a whole lot easier.

[rjohnstone]

not if the CNC machine has drilled those holes for you, which is the case most of the time.

i've had issues top mounting the nut myself, sometimes the grove catches the side of the walls wrong and pulls one side of the nut away from the fretboard. CNC drilled holes should be lined up perfect making bottom mount installation a whole lot easier.

What is this "groove" you're talking about on top mount nuts?

If you're having a custom neck built, I can see having it done, but again, why risk weakening the neck for the sake of saving the 2 minutes it would take to line up the nut properly and drill the pilot holes for the screws?

I just don't get it. :think:

[Dreamland_Rebel]

What is this "groove" you're talking about on top mount nuts?

If you're having a custom neck built, I can see having it done, but again, why risk weakening the neck for the sake of saving the 2 minutes it would take to line up the nut properly and drill the pilot holes for the screws?

I just don't get it. :think:

i've been buying necks from places like Musikraft.com where you get the nut shelf cut and you can choose to have the holes drilled for bottom mount or left alone to top mount it yourself. i've done the latter because i was concerned about weakening the neck.

i've had issues with the grove from the screws catching the side wall of the pilot hole and pulling the nut away from the fretboard. i've had to have 2 different necks doweled and the nut reinstalled because of this. even when i'm trying to compensate and angle the pilot holes towards the fretboard I've had issues. granted I'm not the greatest wood worker. but because of this my next custom neck will be bottom mount prepared so that i can just bolt on the nut and go.

[rjohnstone]

Ahh... I see. I've had that happen once.
I recommend you get a small drill press in the future. Doesn't have to be a fancy one either. Mine was under $100.
I use mine for pressing in trem bushings as well.
They make spot on pilot holes which greatly reduce the chance of the screw walking on you.

[atdguitars]

Self centering VIX bits help tremendously for getting pilot holes drilled right the first time.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610&filter=vix

[Newc]

As well, you can use a drill bit that is half the diameter of the nut screw. Rather than drill "just enough for the screw to grab", you can drill the full depth and the screw still has plenty of wood to bite into.


RJ - Could you post a link to this -$100 drill press? Is it stable enough to hold a Dremel with a router bit?

[rjohnstone]

As well, you can use a drill bit that is half the diameter of the nut screw. Rather than drill "just enough for the screw to grab", you can drill the full depth and the screw still has plenty of wood to bite into.


RJ - Could you post a link to this -$100 drill press? Is it stable enough to hold a Dremel with a router bit?

This is what I have. $99 at Sears.
Not the greatest, but gets the job done.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921900000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Drill+Presses

I highly doubt you could get a Dremel to work with this setup.