Boss GX-700 - repair or replace?

[wilkinsi]

I've got what sounds like an input stage problem. It was like this when I bought it, but the evilbay seller never told me. You play the guitar and whilst the effects work, you mostly just get static popping and fizzing, as though the input is too weak or fucked to get to the processor. Nothing wrong with the guitars as I get a good signal into my GT-10. I opened up the GX-700 and couldn't find any burn marks, nothing has blown or burnt out. I can prolly get another GX700 off ebay but then I'm prolly taking the same risk again. So do I replace the input or just buy another GX-700 off ebay? I'm gonna ask Roland if they can do an out of warranty repair, but I'm not optimistic considering they refused to sort out a similar problem on a Roland VS1880.

[atdguitars]

I've got what sounds like an input stage problem. It was like this when I bought it, but the evilbay seller never told me. You play the guitar and whilst the effects work, you mostly just get static popping and fizzing, as though the input is too weak or fucked to get to the processor. Nothing wrong with the guitars as I get a good signal into my GT-10. I opened up the GX-700 and couldn't find any burn marks, nothing has blown or burnt out. I can prolly get another GX700 off ebay but then I'm prolly taking the same risk again. So do I replace the input or just buy another GX-700 off ebay? I'm gonna ask Roland if they can do an out of warranty repair, but I'm not optimistic considering they refused to sort out a similar problem on a Roland VS1880.

If it uses an AC Adapter make sure its putting out the correct voltage and amperage. I've sent things back to Roland that were no longer in production and never had a problem with them fixing it.

[wilkinsi]

But wouldn't that cause it to lose power?

Was it a free repair or what did they charge you, and for what?

[Rsmacker]

You "prolly" want to dab a 25w soldering iron (NOT that great big 40w shovel you use for soldering to the back of volume pots) over the input socket joints, because if it's like everything else Roland have ever done, it'll "prolly" be shite, the weakest point of the unit. "Prolly".

No, that's OK, you can thank me later.......

So glad you are alive and posting too WB, I was going to ask someone to go round and let you out of the gimp box but forgot. Sorry.

[wilkinsi]

No, I won't thank you because the joints are inaccessible.

[jacksonaxes]

If you remove the board from the chassis you should be able to access the joints.

[wilkinsi]

I was thinking of doing that, but I'm concerned about ripping the thin board off the inside of the faceplate. I'll give it a go...

[zeegler]

This is prolly not going to end well.

[wilkinsi]

Pfft, you can fuck off 'n all!

[Rsmacker]

Just take your time sweetie and all will be well. Does that ribbon connect to the thin board you are concerned about? If so, pop the retainer up at the wafer connector and take the ribbon out. Try not to bend the bare ends, and make sure you know which way round it came, there will prolly be a red end (oo-er) or a black stripe to show you.
Just a dab with the iron, not a fucking great plod "for good measure", you'll burn the track otherwise. If you plug it in when the board is out, you might even see the jack socket flexing or the solder pads.

Remember when putting it back together, not to force anything.

We all know what happens when you force something into a hole it isn't designed to go into, don't we sugar?




Oh, and you WILL thank me. Yes indeedy, Daddy Luvcum demands it.

[wilkinsi]

Those two ribbons are nowhere near the input stages, dufus. Now crawl back under your bridge so I can keep throwing bricks at you everytime you pop your head out.

[VitaminG]

Those two ribbons are nowhere near the input stages, dufus. Now crawl back under your bridge so I can keep throwing bricks at you everytime you pop your head out.

another exhibition of your most excellent comprehension skills.

Vision clouded by raging man-lust again....

Rs is just suggesting that you remove that ribbon to prevent damaging that thin board on the inside of the faceplate that you're concerned about as you lift the board out of the chassis. You still need to remove the board from the chassis to access the joints.

[Rsmacker]

Yeah dufus!:ROTF:


He's only upset because I haven't got him any rock yet. (I've got something pink hard and sticky for him though)
Bought him a beautiful yellow sarong too the other day, if he doesn't watch out I'll give it to Jodie The Pig (and the sarong)

And stop using gay slang on here WB, people don't know what you mean. For example - "so I can keep throwing bricks at you" obviously means "so I can keep tonguing away at your dangleberries", I assume?

Love you sweetie pie honey bunch.

[mr426]

You know I have one of these, and while I do like how good it sounds right into the board.I can't get a good sound thru the loop on my Boogie with it. It sounds a bit disorted and unclean no matter what I do.Anyway I did open mine up last week and replace a popped cap that went bad.I had to take the board out and all.It was easy.