I want to buy a hand gun

[Maiden89]

joe bob outfitters has free shipping on ammo over $90...

[xenophobe]

Regarding the Luger, I've read online that the spring in these is strong and you need a +P to push the action back far enough to eject the round without catching it. They say the Luger was designed when 9x19's had more power than today's loads. This Luger is in rebuilt shape (like new) and it does have a very strong new spring.

A Luger should have no problem cycling standard 9mm ball ammuntion. If it does, there's a problem.

You might be confused because some ammo is marketed as 9mm Luger, and and some of it is labeled 9mm Luger +P or +P+. That doesn't mean it's designed specifically for the Luger. Saying 9mm Luger is the shorter way of saying 9x19mm Parabellum. It doesn't mean you can shoot anything that says "Luger" on it through an actual Luger.

And if it's one of the cheap ones, Mitchell Arms, Stoeger or... there's another brand that doesn't come to mind... yeah, feel free to shoot anything you want, that doesn't make it necessarily safe though. Some of those actions are really stiff and aren't milled as nice.

If it's any of the military or old German commercial imports, especially if it's a wartime... don't shoot +P.

But like I said, I'm still new to guns, so I'll take your advice and try to locate a gunsmith. How do you guys determine someone local to trust? Word of mouth?

Just any local guy should do. Just have him look it over. That usually doesn't cost anything.

[RacerX]

I'm open to suggestions. The box of copper coated .22LR from Winchester seemed to work good.

CCI Blazer

[LouSiffer]

I always had luck with Remington .22 LR. They even have a Hyper-Velocity .22 LR. Ditto on what Xeno said.

With the 1911 .22....it may just be a break in thing. Gotta get the parts good and loose before it does what its supposed to. I will say in my experience, the Federal ammo is usually dirtier........maybe this residue is in the extractor?-Lou