Tusq, bone, brass, graphite, or plastic?

[bombtek]

In my never ending quest for "that" tone, I'm focusing some attention on the nut. For those that have tried a different material for their guitar's nut, what difference did you take note of? Better tuning stability? Better/worse tone? Clearer/more subdued open string sound? Better/worse sustain?

Also, something came to mind while I've been thinking about this subject, and it may sound silly to some of you, but it is kind of baffling me.

Other than "guiding" the string to the tuning peg, what purpose do the string slots in the nut serve? I only ask this because I am wondering if they really are needed at all. Yeah I know that might raise a few eyebrows but hear me out.

Looking at the other end of the guitar...the bridge...specifically the saddles. I have a few guitars with saddles that have no slot/groove or anything to "guide" a string anywhere. Just a smooth metal surface that the string rests on. Those guitars do not go out of tune any more than the ones that do have slotted/grooved saddles. The sustain is better on some, and better on others ....both ways, so that isn't really measurable against one another. Reason I'm asking this is because I'm getting a couple different style nuts delivered and some are pre-slotted, some are not. I'm thinking of trying out a brass non slotted nut on my Squier (it's my go to modding/test guitar ) just to see. If anyone has any insight as to why slots are crucial please fill me in.

[toejam]

If the nut is not slotted, your strings are going to be too high off the fretboard and go out of tune easy when pressing down, not to mention your strings will probably just slide around a lot more and the E strings might slip off the edges. I tend to prefer the lubricating properties of a graphite nut but never had a problem with plastic or bone. Haven't ever used the tusq or brass.

[bombtek]

regarding the height, a simple sanding to the correct height will bring your strings to the same level as a slotted nut. I'm thinking that the nut is really nothing more than another fret? Typically with slots though. thinking like that , Ive never had a problem with a guitar string going out of tune because it slides around on whatever fret. See where I'm coming from? The anchor point is the tuning peg and the slots in a nut are there just to guide the string to it as far as I can tell. Without slots, the nut just becomes a high fret, and being the final point on the fretboard, I don't see a big deal having it not slotted. I mean, if you fret say at the 5th fret, that 5th fret in essence becomes the nut for that string until you release it. It doesn't go out of tune then does it?

[Mudlark]

I changed my DKMGT plastic nut to bone a couple years ago and can say, acoustically, it made the guitar noticeably brighter. I'm embarrassed to say I don't fully remember if the added brightness was noticeable when amplified. I'm pretty sure it was brighter, but...

[bombtek]

Joe, here's an interesting article about the concept of the "zero fret"...which I THINK I may have talking about with my theory:

http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/18349

[bombtek]

hmmmmmmmmm:

http://www.zeroglide.com/store/?cat=7

[Axewielder]

The tele guys debate the grooved vs. non-grooved saddle thing. I've never heard anybody going with a nut without slots.

[pianoguyy]

Randy got me hooked on bone.
I like 0 fret, but it needs done right.

May i suggest checking out the nut that esp has been using. The Earvana Compensated nut.
I can't say what it does, but it does make a difference.

[bombtek]

I got a slotted brass nut. Gonna give that a try. But that zeroglide nut is piquing my interest now!

[VitaminG]

I think an unslotted nut might work. But only if your string travel is dead straight from tuning peg to bridge saddle. Most of my guitars do not have straight string travel and the nutslots position the string correctly on the fretboard.

I do wonder what effect the additional movement allowed at the nut could have. Will you see more string breakage at the nut as the nut is now able to saw away at your string with every note you play?

[leftykingv2]

I personally prefer bone on all of mine.

[Shawn Lutz]

I'm curious on this as well and considering changing the nuts on my LP's. I have heard that bone and Tusq are improvements over plastic ones.

[toejam]

Joe, here's an interesting article about the concept of the "zero fret"...which I THINK I may have talking about with my theory:
http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/18349

I remember the zero fret many years ago. I still don't think having a nut not slotted is a good idea, but it might work. Though, like Gary said, it might not work so well if there's not straight string pull directly to your machine heads.
Carvin actually uses a zero nut now on the Holdsworth HH models, but they're a headless design like a Steinberger. Most people seem not to like the zero fret and have problems, and I've heard the same about some Vigiers and other guitars that use them and seem to have the zero nut wear down quickly.

[leftykingv2]

I'm curious on this as well and considering changing the nuts on my LP's. I have heard that bone and Tusq are improvements over plastic ones.

My 1976 Standard does sound better in my opinion with a bone nut than it did with the graph-tech one that was on it when I bought it.

[leftykingv2]

I remember the zero fret many years ago. I still don't think having a nut not slotted is a good idea, but it might work. Though, like Gary said, it might not work so well if there's not straight string pull directly to your machine heads.
Carvin actually uses a zero nut now on the Holdsworth HH models, but they're a headless design like a Steinberger. Most people seem not to like the zero fret and have problems, and I've heard the same about some Vigiers and other guitars that use them and seem to have the zero nut wear down quickly.

I agree. I think it would ruin tuning stability and then there would be the problem of bending the strings with out them going completely off of the nut.