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Finally...my music room is framed!

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  • Finally...my music room is framed!

    It's about fucking time too.

    2 x 6's for the walls. The room is 14 x 14 with a 7.5 foot ceiling. I know that symetrical rooms are generally not good, so I'm building out the rear wall (the one against the steps) with an enormous bookcase/CD/DVD case which will be 8 inches deep. Not only will it be practical to store stuff, but will break up the solid wall and help dampen noise fromn the steps themselves. I have various other things to put in the room to assist in keeping nasty reverb to a minimum too (auralex tiles, a small couch, etc).

    The basement was already studded, insulated and vapour barriered when we bought it, so all I had to do was 2 walls and an opening for my door. Gonna insulate the walls with R20 and use some kind of wallboard product like Quiet Rock or something and probably drywall over that. I'm not trying to "soundproof" it, just keep leakage to a minimum. I record directly anyways, so it'll mostly be monitoring and keeping the sounds of the household under control. No Marshall stacks here. I will also be using the same method on the ceiling too (insulation & 2 layers of wallboard).

    The door is actually a steel door with a solid wood core like you'd have on the outside of your house. I found a nice pre-hung one cheap so I snagged it. I haven't hung it yet obviously.

    This has taken a stupid amount of time as I'm doing it myself and have no experience in construction at all. Plus I work crazy shifts, have 2 kids and the wife works full time too. It's damn near impossible to find an hour a week to work on this. I hope to have the electrical done in the next 2 weeks. My wife's uncle (real nice guy) is an electrician so he'll be wiring it (and the rest of the basement) up. The room will have 8 outlets on 2 breakers (4 each) and the lights will be on their own separate breaker. Apparently he says he'll get me hospital grade for the same price so that rocks. Keep some of that nast 60 cycle hum out of there.

    Anyhoo, enough ranting, here's pics:

    From the outside









    From the inside



    Wish me luck on getting this done by the summer. I'm sick of having half my shit still in boxes.
    THIS SPACE FOR RENT

  • #2
    Don't insulate with R20!!! That is the biggest mistake I made. Get mineral wool insulation. It is WAY better as a sound dampening material and is fine insulation as well.
    I want REAL change. I want dead bodies littering the capitol.

    - Newc

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    • #3
      I researched DIY sound proofing a few months back, and one of the suggestions was to mount your sheet rock (dry wall) to aluminum supports instead of directly to the studs, I think the term for it is "resilient channel" or something like that. Another thing you can do is staggering the distance of the studs.

      Just a thought,

      Steve.
      Guitars:
      '04 Jackson SL1 - Flametop Cabo Blue Trans Burst
      '94 Charvel Predator - Fire Crackle
      '77 Ibanez LP Custom Copy - Black
      Amp:
      VOX AD30VT

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      • #4
        All I got out of this thread was "enornmous", " 8 inches", "hung one", "help dampen" "an opening for my door" "keep leakage to a minimum" "nasty" "studs". I see right through your veiled, coded messages. You cannot fool me.

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        • #5
          Some of the advise given here is pretty cool.
          You may want to consider de-coupling the sheetrock from the studs to avoid through resonance. I researched Sheetblok from Auralex and it works pretty well if cut into strips and sandwiching it between the stud and the panel.

          If you want to further dampen high frequencies use one sheetrock slice-Sheetblok layer-sheetrock slice.
          The stuff is pricey but it works.
          Mr. Patience.... ask for a free consultation.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by El_Kabong View Post
            All I got out of this thread was "enornmous", " 8 inches", "hung one", "help dampen" "an opening for my door" "keep leakage to a minimum" "nasty" "studs". I see right through your veiled, coded messages. You cannot fool me.
            :ROTF:
            THIS SPACE FOR RENT

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            • #7
              You can't see in the pics, but none of the walls actually touch the joists. City bylaw requires a 3/4 inch gap because the ground heaves up and down with our drastic season changes. The ceiling walboards will also not directly connect to the joists. There are 2 x 4's running perpendicular to the joists that the wallboard will be anchored to. This will not only stop most sound transfre to the floor above, but I needed a 2 inch gap because of some wiring, water pipes an the A/C line.

              I don't know if the mineral wool stuff will fit into my budget. It's a good 20% more than fiberglass. I may go with R15 as there's more airspace in the bats.

              Thanks for all the tips guys, and keep 'em coming! Just remember I'm doing this on the cheap.
              THIS SPACE FOR RENT

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